Federweisser - a special wine available after the grape harvest

What is Federweisser?

(A printer-friendly pdf file, with written content but no pictures -> What is Federweisser?)

Federweisser suddenly appears at the end of September in towns and cities within the German wine regions. Some towns host a Federweisser Fest whilst in cities like Frankfurt Federweisser appears at the local farmer's markets. The season is short, so enjoy it while you can. 

Federweisser is known as "new" wine. After the juice has been extracted from the harvested grapes, yeast is added to the must (juice) and fermentation begins. As fermentation progresses, the alcohol levels are monitored and once they reach 4%, the juice can be drunk in the form of Federweisser. The wine is still actively fermenting, so expect a glass of cloudy, refreshingly prickly wine which has a natural sweetness to it. The name means "feather white" and derives from the white'ish appearance of small yeast particles floating in the glass which, some say, looks like small white feathers. Don't be fooled by it's sweet taste though, Federweisser can achieve an alcohol content of up to 10%.

Federweisser - cloudy in appearance and naturally sweet

In the Rhineland you'll see Federweisser written Federweißer. In other regions it is also known as Süßer, Sauser and Neue Wein. Roterweisser is the same product but made from red grapes hence it has a deep pink appearance. Because the wine is still fermenting and releasing carbon dioxide, bottles cannot be fully sealed and are left partially open to let the gas escape. As a result transportation of Federweisser is a delicate business and this is why it is rarely available outside of the wine regions. Occasionally you can find a bottle in local supermarkets, but be warned - if the bottle is unsealed (a sign of good quality) you'll have to carry your precious cargo upright all the way home!

Traditionally Zwiebelkuchen (onion cake) is eaten with Federweisser and it's a heavenly combination. The Rhineland version of Zwiebelkuchen is a thin base of bread like dough topped with a good depth of soft, sweet onions, sautéed with speck and a sprinkling of caraway seeds. This recipe http://mybestgermanrecipes.com/german-onion-tart/ is the most authentic I have found.

Where to find Federweisser in Frankfurt

In Frankfurt the Liebfrauenberg is hosting a 10 day Federweisser Fest starting on September 27th 2024. Federweisser is also available at the Rollanderhof wine outlets at the Kleinmarkthalle, the Thursday and Saturday farmer's market on Konstablerwacher and the weekly market on Schillerstraße (details about market days can be found here). In addition, Weinschirn, Römerberg 8 (an excellent wine bar close to the cathedral), stocks Federweisser so there is plenty of opportunity to try the new wine before the season finishes!

Rollanderhof, above the back exit of the Kleinmarkthalle, serving Federweisser!

Apple wine - a speciality of Frankfurt

The 2024 Apfelweinfest is being hosted on Roßmarkt, in Frankfurt, until August 18th. If you are coming to Frankfurt then you should definitely try a glass or two of this beverage famed as the local drink of Hessen and commonly called Äppler. The name however is misleading being more like a cider than a wine with an average alcohol content of 4%. Also be aware it has a sour flavour which is why you often see the locals ordering a bottle of sparkling water, along side their bembel (jug) of apple wine, which they use to top up the drink and soften the sourness.

How to order your apple wine

When ordering by the glass,  apple wine 'pur' means it is pure apple wine. If you want your glass topped with a little water, then order an apple wine 'sauer' and if you need a little sweetness, then order an apple wine 'suss', in this case the glass is topped with a little lemonade.

Bembels (jugs) of apple wine always come 'pur' and you order by the number of glasses. E.g if you are with a group of 6 friends you might order a '6er' bembel which holds six glasses of apple wine. Don't forget to order a bottle of sparkling water for those in your group who want to soften down the flavour. Better still go to Kelterei Heil, a known and respected brand in Frankfurt, and they'll include a bottle of water with your bembel.

Kelterei Heil offering a 6er Bembel and bottle of water for 12€

One joy of the Apfelweinfest is trying apple wine from a variety of producers. Each brand has it's own flavour. Some producers offer unfilterred apple wine which is cloudy and labelled 'naturtrüb' whilst the more regular applewine is clear. Two producers offering naturtrüb at this years festival are Hofmann's and Trageser. My favourite regular apple wines offering a fresh taste are by Nöll, Walther and Stier This year Nöll, Walther and Stier have their stalls side by side, so not too far to wander to sample from all three!  Rosé apple wine is another variety worth a try and has a less sour taste. Nöll offer an Apfel-Secco which is milder and naturally sweet. 
 

Apple wine is always served in a 'gerippte' glass. The pretty diamond shape etching serves a practical purpose - it's to stop the glass from slipping through your greasy fingers, which is a very likely peril after a bratwurst or two. This year the Apfelweinfest is hosting a variety of foods, including vegetarian and vegan, fish and chips, traditional green sauce and the ever present Schwenkgrill (swinging grill over an open fire) for the meat eaters. 

If you've missed the festival but still want to try apple wine, try visiting one of the famous apple wine taverns in Sachsenhausen - a few of my favourites are on my web page, click on the link and scroll down to Applewine taverns in Sachsenhausen to see a list.

A traditional 'Gerippte' glass containing a sample of Hofmann's naturtrüb Äppler - Zum Wohl!

Navigating around Frankfurt's Christmas markets

Updated: 24th November 2023 - The heart of the Frankfurt Christmas market is on the Römerberg in the old town. Here you will find the town hall, the 30 meter high Christmas tree and plenty of stalls to browse. Glühwein is available at just about every other stall, but read on for a few tips on the best places to try this warming, hot, mulled wine. The map below details the different areas in the city centre where the Christmas market is hosted. 

Map of Christmas market areas around central Frankfurt

Frankfurt Christmas market on the Römerberg

The main hub of the Frankfurt Christmas market is indicated by the orange area at the southern tip of the map above. It's the traditional site of the market, on the Römerberg, dating all the way back to the 14th century.

Frankfurt Christmas Arts Fairs

Prior to browsing the stalls and commencing with the drinking, peak behind the huge Christmas tree to find the entrance to the town hall and step inside to for the annual Christmas Arts Fair (2nd - 22nd December). Local artists sell their wares directly to the public and there is a lovely mix of jewellery, pottery, sculpture as well as framed pictures and photographs.
There is also the St. Pauls Church Arts Fair (22nd November - 22nd December). Head into the church and down into the basement to see a collection of art by local artists.

Frankfurt Römerberg - town hall and Christmas tree

A highlight of the Christmas market on the Römerberg is the carousel. It's not just for children so you should definitely have a quick ride before moving on. From the carousel, if you head toward the Schirn Art Gallery you'll pass a few stalls on your right. One stall sells hand-made wooden decorations which make great mementos and can easy be packed into luggage if you’re travelling this Christmas. Beyond the wooden decoration stall and to the left is a row of small sheds. This is where you'll find some of the best home-made Glühwein in Frankfurt. The locals hang out here, sipping a cup of hot wine after work and it gets busy! At the other end of the row of sheds is the Bethmännchen stall selling baked marzipan treats, only to be found in Frankfurt.

Glühwein stand at the back of the Römerberg - popular with the locals!

Frankfurt Christmas market on Paulsplatz

Another area of the Christmas market to explore is on Paulsplatz. (the area marked in purple on the map). Next to the St. Paul's church is Wagner's Honey House. It's a traditional timber-framed (Fachwerk) house converted especially for the Christmas market. Upstairs is a variety of honey based drinks and liqueurs to buy whilst downstairs has an amazing variety of honey. Beside St. Pauls church is one of my favourite hot chestnut sellers and directly opposite that stall is the Lion's Club Glühwein stall selling a good quality Glühwein. There is also a traditional Tiroler wood carver stall, Bachmann selling hand crafted nativity scenes and figures. 

Frankfurt Christmas market on Friedrich-Stoltze-Platz

From Paulsplatz head over to Friedrich-Stoltze-Platz (marked on the map in pink), it has outdoor seating and a great selection of things to eat from vegan specialities to traditional Reibekuchen (potato cakes with apple sauce). At this "Platz" you will also find the best Feuerzangenbowle, a potent Glühwein containing caramelised sugar and rum.  Every time someone leaves a tip, the bell is rung and more rum is poured over the caramelising sugar. Like I say, it's potent!

Potato cakes with apple sauce and a cup of Feuerzangenbowle

Frankfurt Christmas market on Hauptwache

From Friedrich Stoltze Platz, head to Hauptwache (outlined in Blue on the map) for more Christmas cheer. Close to the children's Christmas train is a lovely stall selling traditional wood toys. Head towards the Zeil and you will find another "Wagner's Honey House". The novelty in this location is how the house contains a large statue of David and Goliath within it - go inside and take a look!

Frankfurt Christmas market on at the Thurn und Taxis Palace

The markets close by 9pm but if you are still hankering for one last Glühwein before you head home, go to the Weihnachtsmarkt at the Thurn und Taxis Palais (top of the map outlined in green. Opening dates: 9th Nov - 22nd Dec 2023) Thursday to Saturday the market stays open until 11pm (10pm on other evenings) and offers yet more food and drink for the late night party lovers.

Sachsenhausen Christmas markets

The Sachsenhäuser Weihnachtsmarkt (20th Nov - 21st Dec 2023, but closed on Nov 26th!)) can be found close to the Goethe Turm (Bus 47 or 48) on the edge of the city woods and is known for it’s cosy ambience and great food and drink.
Meanwhile Weihnachtsmarkt Alt Sachsenhausen (1st - 22nd December) takes place on Paradiesplatz, offering the chance to grab some Glühwein before a night enjoying the multiple bars all around.

Which ever one you choose, after a night out at a Frankfurt Weihnachtsmarkt it's sure to be a Merry Christmas!

The following link offers some more detail on special things to do and see at the Frankfurt Christ market.

Frankfurt Christmas Market 2022

Frankfurt doesn’t just have one of the best and most expansive Christmas markets….it also has lots of other festive fun around the city. So this page is dedicated to highlighting where a variety of Christmas festivities can be found in and around Frankfurt. I’ll be offering updates of local information, such as where the best Glühwein is to be found, on my Facebook page. In the meantime Merry Christmas!🎄

Frankfurt Christmas Market

The Christmas market in the city centre will be spread over the Römer and along the Neue Kräme onto Hauptwache. Daily until 22nd December, the stalls will be open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m, and on Sundays from 11 a.m. onwards. There is lots of additional information regarding special events such as steam train rides, artists markets and where to find gluten-free treats on the Frankfurt Tourist Board website.

Gibson CityXmas

Opposite the Old Opera House, at Opernplatz 2, you can’t miss the huge, lit-up, reindeer which marks the site of the Gibson CityXmas oper-air bar and market. The market is open from 4pm until 11pm Mon - Thurs, from 2pm until midnight Fri - Sat, and until 9pm on Sundays. Full details can be found on the CityXmas webpage.

Christmas Garden

Running until January 15th 2023, Deutsche Bank Stadion Park will be decorated with millions of lights and feature a variety of culinary stalls. Various themed worlds and installations will invite visitors to marvel. In addition, there will be mulled wine, roasted almonds and many other delicacies. Details about entrance fees and opening times can be found on the Christmas Garden web page.

Christmas in the Palmengarten

The Palmengarten will be decorated at Christmas time with poinsettias, amaryllas and Christmas roses. In addition, twinkling lights will dance around the blossoms to create a Christmas atmosphere. The Palmengarten invites its visitors to the Christmas Lights Special from 10th December until 8th January 4 pm to 9 pm.

Christmas creative market - Dornbusch

The Christmas creative market invites visitors to the Kreativwerkstatt from November 28th until December 2nd.

Artists' Christmas Market 2022

Integral to the Frankfurt Christmas Market is the Artist’s Christmas Market, where artists exhibit their work in the Paulskirche and the Römerhallen. The exhibition in St Paul's Church is scheduled to run from 21st November to 22nd December from 12 noon to 8pm. The exhibition in the Römerhallen is expected to take place from 2nd to 22nd December. Peer behind the large Christmas tree to find the entrance to the Römer. Admission is free.

Pink Christmas Market

This year, the Pink Christmas Market will once again be held on Friedrich-Stoltze-Platz. From 22nd November to 22nd December various stalls will be offering food and drink (and somewhere to sit!!) including vegan and gluten-free options.

Sachsenhäuser Christmas Market

Stroll through the atmospheric Sachsenhäuser Christmas market at the Goetheturm. From 21st November to 22nd December, mulled wine, roasted almonds and many other Advent delicacies will be on offer on the south side of the Main. During the week, the market opens at 4 pm, on weekends from 1 pm.

Around Lokalbahnhof

Lokalbahnhof is associated with being a bus (numbers 30 & 36), tram (numbers 15, 16 & 18) and S-Bahn stop. Many alight here on their way to a night out in Alt Sachsenhausen or for a meet-up with friends in the Brückenviertal. Rarely does anyone talk of Lokalbahnhof as a destination in it’s own right. But that’s about to change, so read on…

As you step out of the S-Bahn the immediate attraction is the Alte Liebe bar. Long established in Sachsenhausen, Alte Liebe relocated to the corner of Darmstädter Landstraße and Mühlbruchstraße approximately four years ago. With the vibe of a traditional pub, regualr revues and even musical bingo nights, the Alte Liebe attracts a loyal following.

Directly opposite Alte Liebe, across the busy Darmstädter Landstraße and on the corner of Hedderichstraße is Eiscafe L’Incontro. A long standing, family run, Italian gelato cafe. If you get the chance, try the Joghurt-Birne ice-cream. It’s delicious, and you can’t find it anywhere else in Frankfurt!

View fullsize

Ice-cream cafe - L'Incontro

View fullsize

Barrio Cafe

L’Incontro is at one end of a row of shops on Darmstädter Landstraße. Over the past two years, new retailers have taken up vacant space and there is now a mix of independent stores which serve the local community. Møbel (no. 50) has some great present ideas and is worth a browse. Blumenlokal (no. 44) is the “go-to” flower shop in the area and most recently Barrio cafe (no. 42) has opened up and has already attained a reputation for its breakfasts and freshly prepared lunch menus.

Another well established and popular bar and restaurant is Lokalbahnhof, Darmstädter Landstraße 14. Cosy in the winter and with a small outdoor garden open in the summer, Lokalbahnhof offers large plates of hearty food and, a not too shabby, variety of vegan and vegetarian options too.

A little further up and on the other side of Darmstädter Landstraße at number three, is Kaliko. Small and quaint, with a great menu that has weekly updates, Kaliko is a rarity among restaurants in that it is open on a Monday but be aware it is closed to on a Saturday!

Leaving Darmstädter Landstraße and walking along Dreieichstraße will lead you to number 54 and the Harmonie Art House Cinema. This cinema specialises in showing films in the original language and has a very nice bar area to and a selection of small snacks.

Directly opposite the Harmonie cinema is a shopping complex, the Meichsner & Dennerlein bookstore has a lovely selection of postcards and greetings cards. Meanwhile outside the Rewe supermarket exit is a book exchange. It’s a tall glass cabinet where books are donated and anyone can help themselves.

If flat whites and other speciality coffee brews are your thing, then you only have to walk up Dreichstrase a little further and turn right into Große Rittergasse to find Café Under Pressure, Große Rittergasse 20.

View fullsize

Cafe Under Pressure

View fullsize

Kaliko

By the end of an afternoon browsing and getting to know Lokalbahnhof a little better, a glass of wine might be in order. Urbans & anders, Dreieichstraße 20, stands on the corner where Große Rittergasse leads into the night life of Alt Sachsenhausen. It’s a friendly wine bar with some excellent German wines among its list of wines by the glass and bottle.

I hope you enjoy getting to know this little area of Frankfurt. If there is something I have missed out, add a comment and I shall investigate!

Vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free restaurants in Frankfurt

Updated 04 July 2022 - please check the individual websites for opening times.

It can be difficult to find vegetarian, vegan and gluten free restaurants in the centre of Frankfurt so I've listed some of the places that I like, which offer something for alternative appetites. I've used the following markers at the beginning of each restaurant for easy identification:
V = Vegetarian
VG = Vegan
GF = Gluten free
If you know of any other cafes or restaurants to add to the list…send me a comment!

Near the main station (Hauptbahnhof) and Willy-Brandt-Platz

V -  Saravanaa Bhavan (Kaiserstr. 68) is 100% vegetarian and serves the best Indian food in town. Try the dosa, it's a good as any in India! Close the main station in the Bahnhofsviertal.

V, VG & other allergens - Kaiserzeit (Kaiserstr. 59) close to the main station is an organic bakery which opens early (7am) to cater for the breakfast crowd. It identifies all manner of options and allergens including wheat-free and lactose-free (no GF though!)

V, VG, GF - Vevay (Kleiner Hirschgraben 10) Vegetarian restaurant and predominantly vegan too. The menu clearly denotes other allergens. Very close to the New Opera house and city theatre on Willy-Brandt-Platz.

V, GF - Pizzeria Scicilia (Niedenau 9) on request this tiny, basic pizza place serves up excellent, gluten-free, pizza. Close to the Bahnhofsviertal however it is slightly off the beaten track and only opens: Mon - Fri from 11:30a - 3.30pm. 

V, VG - Elaine’s Deli (Taunus Tor 1-3) in the park at the base of one of the office buildings, Elaine’s Deli has varied and delicious bowls, salads and freshly made sandwiches. Opens at 07:30 on weekdays.

Frankfurt city centre - vegan, vegetarian and gluten free cafes and restaurants - click here for interactive map

In the city centre and old town

V, VG, GF- Mainkai (Mainkai 15) is just south of the Cathedral in the old town. It's known for it's breakfasts and offers plenty of choice for vegetarians and also some gluten-free and vegan options. At the weekend reserving a table for breakfast is advised!

V, VG, GF -  Metropol Cafe (Weckmarkt 13-15) is right behind the Cathedral. Plenty of seating inside and on a sunny day it has a lovely garden to relax in. Metropol is popular with the locals at the weekend and has the option of a vegan breakfast. Vegetarian and vegan options are also available at other times of the day.

V, VG, GF - Vapiano (Goetheplatz 1-3)  in the heart of the city centre, this might be a chain restaurant but it clearly identifies vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options on it's menu. 

V, VG - Lebegesund (Kleinmarkthalle) A market stall perfect for lunch tucked away at the back of the Kleinmarkthalle. Lebegesund offers a variety of vegan dishes to take away.

V, GF - Isabella Glutenfreie Patisserie (Neue Kräme 29) 100% gluten free and not just cakes either! Filled sandwiches and croissants too.

V, VG - Zeil-Kitchen (Zeil 92) In the heart of the shopping area. Exclusively vegetarian with some vegan options and allergens also listed.

V, VG & other allergens - Kaiserzeit (Börsenplatz 1) An organic bakery which opens early (7am) to cater for the breakfast crowd. It identifies all manner of options and allergens including wheat-free and lactose-free (no GF though!)

V, VG, GF - Vevay (Kleine Hirschgraben 10) Vegetarian cafe and predominantly vegan too. Their menu clearly denotes other allergens.

V, VG Badias (Römerberg 6a, by the Schirn Art Gallery) Lovely vegetable platters and fresh food in the heart of the “new” old town. GF* Badias does not formally offer GF food for coeliacs. If you however, just have an intolerance, there are plenty of dishes without gluten ingredients.

Sachsenhausen

V, VG, GF - Mystery of Pizza (Brückenstr. 36) It’s a small restaurant so make sure you reserve. Delivery and collection service also offered.