What to do on a Sunday - visit Schwanheim

Updated 05.05.2021 - opening hours listed below may be affected by Covid 19 restrictions.

Schwanheim is a small Frankfurt suburb, easily reached travelling on the number 12 tram or by taking the number 51 or 62 bus. Schwanheim might be small but it has plenty of family attractions for a day out. As you alight from the tram, the first thing you will notice is the VGF Transport museum at the tram stop, open on Sundays from 10:00 until 17:00. It houses a variety of old time trams and vehicles, old signalling equipment and ticketing machines and is a great place for enthusiasts and children.

Entrance to the Transport Museum in Schwanheim next to the no. 12 tram stop. (Photo copyright © 2016 by Anne Noble)

Almost next door to the VGF museum is the Kobelt Zoo, *season opening beginning of May, it's a small petting zoo with free entry and open at the weekends (and public holidays) for the summer season until the end of September. Walk around the corner from the VGF museum onto Schwanheimer Bahnstraße and the zoo is on your left. Opening times are Saturdays from 14:00 until 19:00 and Sunday from 10:00 until 19:00. The zoo houses a few donkey's, rabbits, snakes and goats, to name but a few species,  and it's small and accessible. They have a cafe selling refreshments and cakes in case you are in need of a break. The zoo is dependent on donations so give generously on your way out as I'm sure you'll be impressed by the variety of animals and birds and the charming, relaxed setting.

REfreshments at the Kobelt Zoo.  (Photo copyright © 2016 by Anne Noble)

After visiting the zoo another local venue within a 5 minute walk is the Heimatmuseum, located at Alt Schwanheim 6. Normal opening hours are 14:00 to 16:00 on Sundays and entry is free. Information throughout the museum is written in German but it houses many interesting artefacts and there is plenty to see and enjoy given Schwanheim's rich history since 880, when the town was first officially recorded. 

Entrance to the Heimatmuseum, Alt Schwanheim 6. (Photo copyright © 2016 by Anne Noble)

When heading back to the tram after your day out don't miss out on an ice-cream from Eissalon Riviera, located at Alt Schwanheim 40. Either pick up an ice-cream to take away or sit down and relax whilst tucking into an ice-cream sundae. Family run, this ice-cream cafe is renown as one of the best in Frankfurt.

Eissalon Riviera, Alt schwanheim 40. (Photo copyright © 2016 by Anne Noble)

Another attraction in Schwanheim for the kids is the Waldspielpark, the Forest Playground. With water features, table tennis tables and mini golf it's an ideal way for kids to let off steam. The entrance is on Schwanheimer Bahnstraße, almost opposite the Kobalt Zoo entrance.

Special note for cyclists

It's a pleasant cycle ride from Frankfurt to Schwanheim. Simply follow the path along the southern bank of the River Main. When you reach the huge locks on the river, you are not far from Schwanheim town centre. Go beyond the locks and to the left you will see a collection of Schrebegartens (garden plots) and a sign proudly announcing "Zum Nussbaum", follow the path and you'll be at a classic Hessiche restaurant. Run by Polish nationals, the restaurant serves a delightful mix of traditional German and Polish fare. After refreshment at Zum Nussbaum, carry on heading west along the river path and within 300 metres you will see a bridge to the left which will take you up and over the busy road and into the heart of Schwanheim.          

Path along the River Main, close to "Zum NussBaum" (Photo copyright © 2016 by Anne Noble)

Cafes and other treats, during the Frankfurt Old Town voicemap audio tour

Updated 04.08.2024

The suggestions below follow the same route as the tour, plus a few extra hints and tips. If you spot a change, perhaps a new cafe you tried and liked, please, do leave a comment.

Listings

Key to listings: D - dining, C - cafe/coffee, Vg - vegan, TG - to go, W - wine
Along the tour route:

C Einsteins - (Römerberg 32) A bit like Starbucks, but it’s German, and very conveniently placed on the old town square. It keeps longer hours than most cafes in the area from 8am - 9pm.

C Kaffeehaus Goldene Waage (Markt 5) This is in the beautiful renaissance house, just opposite the cathedral. Cake and coffee are good, service slow (not going to lie to you) but this is all about seeing the beautiful renovations within. The cafe is also attached to the Friedrich-Stoltze Museum, free entry, which you will find when visiting the bathrooms!

D C Vg Metropol Kaffeeaus am Dom (Weckmarkt 13-15) I have an affection for this place. Home cooked food, great cakes and a garden that’s an absolute sun-trap out back! (Vegetarian and vegan goods too)

D Wirthaus am Hühnermarkt (Markt 16- 18, Hühnermarkt) In the heart of the New Old Town, the Wirthaus has a menu of traditional Frankfurt food and the quality is high. The pricing is a little higher too, but the setting is lovely and worth it.

C Hoppenworth & Ploch Altstadt (Markt 22, on the Hühnermarkt) Local coffee roaster. For those who like a flat white, this is the place to head to in the Old Town. Of course they have other drinks too!

W Balthasar Ress (Markt 13a, Hühnermarkt) Were you paying attention on the tour? Balthasar’s Weinbar is in the baroque, Grüne Linden, house on the Chicken Market! Balthasar’s produces it’s own wine close to Frankfurt in the Rheingau region. VDP quality wines that are worth trying. For a quick crib sheet on German wine terms, check out this link!

TG Metzgerei Dey - (Markt 13, Hühnermarkt) want to snack like locals do, whilst on the go? Grab a sausage from Dey’s. A family run delicatessen, here in Frankfurt since 1930.

D Badias Shirn Cafe Bar (Schirn Kunsthalle, btw Coronation Way and Bendergasse) Situated above the Coronation Way, Badias has a great selection of freshly prepared salads and dishes with a Mediterranean flair. Although not strictly gluten-free, it is possible to work around the menu and avoid gluten ingredients.

W C Wineschirn (Römerberg 8, directly opposite the U-bahn escalators, exit Römer) ) Another one of my favourites, Weinschirn has a lovely selection of German wines and a few from other lands too. Noted also for the delicious Flammkuchen and small plates of ham and cheese if you’re feeling peckish!)

C ConduitCouture (Fahrtor 1, by Haus Wertheim) On the way to the Iron bridge, queue up here and grab a fine piece of cake or a home made ice-cream. This patisserie makes all the classics, including the famous Frankfurter Kranz, a vanilla sponge with butter cream, jam and a nutty croquant. You can also buy packs of Bethmannchen here - the traditional Frankfurt, baked marzipan treats.

Schirn Art Gallery (Römerberg) modern art gallery offering alternating exhibitions. Check the website for details)

Kaisersaal (entrance on Limpurgergasse. Daily 10am-1pm and 2pm-5pm) The Kaisersaal contains 19th century portraits of all the Holy Roman Emperors. As you walked along Limpurgergasse, after seeing the eavedropping man and cat, you might have noticed a sign on the side wall of the town hall. It’s the entrance point to the Kaisersaal. Walk through the gates, turn right and walk up the the ornate stairwell to gain entrance.

Balthasars Wine Bar

Badias Restaurant

ConduitCouture Konditorei

Frankfurter Kranz Cake

Kaffeehaus Goldene Waage

Weinstube im Römer

Weinschirn Wine Bar

Hoppenworth & Ploch Rosterei

Other recommendations

Not on the tour, but very close by
Braubachstrasse has quite a few cafes, and a couple of antique stores, and is worth exploring, a few highlights are below:
Key to listings: D - dining, C - cafe/coffee, Vg - vegan, TG - to go, W - wine

Handwerkkunst Frankfurt (Braubachstrasse 39 ) If you are looking for traditional German wooden decorations and souvenirs, this shop is close to the Römerberg.

C Iimori (Braubachstrasse 20) The best patisserie in Frankfurt for French bakery specialities and Japanese specialities too.

Fotographie Forum Frankfurt (Braubachstrasse 30-32) A small gallery for photography enthusiasts.

C D Margerete (Braubachstrasse 18) Good for lunch and afternoon coffee and cake. Sit out front and watch the world go by. IMO not so great for dinner.

C Zart & Bitter (Braubachstrasse 14) One for the chocolics! A shop selling all manner of chocolates!

MMK (Domstrasse 10) Museum of Modern Art. On the corner of Braubachstr. and Domstr. When they say modern art, they mean it. This is also the site of Mehl.wasser.salz an excellent bakery, selling light breakfasts and lunches too - with vegetarian options.

Ice-cream
There are lots of ice-cream vendors around the old town but one stands out as better quality than the rest:

C Condit Couture (Fahrtor 1) A lovely konditorei that also sells ice-cream in the summer months.

Kleinmarkthalle

Kleinmarkthalle (Hasengasse 5 -7) The indoor market has take out, wine, coffee and lots more. It’s a Frankfurt institution and locals hang out at Rollanderhof Wein on the 1st floor. It ‘s a very short walk from the old town. There is a second entrance from Ziegelgasse.

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Pott Ice Cream

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Kleinmarkthalle

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Schirn Art Gallery

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Mehl.wasser.salz.

Jewish history in Frankfurt

Frankfurt has a Jewish history dating back to at least the 12th century and there is some excellent information on the web to guide you to key cultural sites within Frankfurt, http://en.juedisches-frankfurt.de/
 
There are two museums in Frankfurt city centre dedicated to Jewish heritage in the city, both offering extensive information in English as well as German. The museum of the Jewish Ghetto, Batonnstrasse 47, displays the original foundation stones of the Frankfurt ghetto, first built in 1462. The Jewish Museum Frankfurt, Bertha-Pappenheim-Platz 1, has exhibits detailing Jewish life in Frankfurt from the 1800’s onwards.
In addition to these two central museums, is the Bildungsstätte Anne Frank, a small exhibit dedicated to Anne Frank, whose family lived in Frankfurt until they moved to Amsterdam to avoid the persecution of the National Socialist regime. This museum is easily accessible by taking the U-bahn (1,2,3 or 8) to Dornbusch. During my last visit they were exhibiting the original diary of Anne Frank.

An exhibit from the Bildungsstätte - Anne Frank in Frankfurt

As well as the information listed on web about Frankfurt Jewish culture there are some additional places to visit which have a Jewish connection. Up near the old opera house is the Rothschildpark, situated on land where the Rothschild's once lived. A placard by the park entrance, on Bockenheimer Landstraße, offers information and photos about the family home that once stood there.

Not far from Konstablerwache is a remnant of the old city wall, the Staufenmauer, dating back to the 12th century. It's also the north entrance to what used to be the Jewish ghetto, first constructed in 1462 and, up until 1815, Jewish residents were confined to living there. Today nothing exists of the old ghetto but walk through the old north entrance and head south towards the Jewish ghetto museum (Museum Judengasse) and you will be treading the path of where the ghetto used to stand.

Staufenmauer, the 12th century city wall and the entrance to the Jewish ghetto.

As you reach the Jewish ghetto museum, on the south east corner of Kurt-Schumacher-Straße and Battonstraße, look out for some brass plates laid into the ground with house names on them, e.g. Goldenes Schaf. The brass plates outline where some of the ghetto houses previously stood and are part of the museum exhibit. The entrance to the Jewish ghetto museum is 30 metres along Battonstraße and it is the ideal place to visit for more information about life in the ghetto.
Next door to the museum, is the old Jewish cemetery, in use from the 1200's through to the 1800's. Around the cemetery walls are listed almost 12,000 names, the names of the Jewish Frankfurt citizens murdered during the holocaust. Follow the wall to the south side and into the Neue Borne Platz, previously the old Jewish market place, today it is a permanent place of remembrance. If you wish to enter the cemetery a key can beborrowed from the museum, but only on production of a valid ID card.

A name Block from the Jewish cemetery wall memorial.

This link also gives details of the other two Jewish cemeteries in Frankfurt, which are both accessible via a short ride on the U-bahn.    

In the heart of the old town, on Römerberg stands the Alte Nikolaikirche. Step inside and notice the colourful stained glass windows in the south wall and one to the west. These windows formerly belonged to Carl von Weinberg. Born into a Jewish family in the 1880's he converted to the evangelical faith however, because of his Jewish beginnings, the National Socialist regime reclassified Carl von Weinberg and forced him to sell his estate. The window's creator,  Lena von Schauroth, took the windows for save keeping and in 1951 permission was given for the windows to be installed in the Alte Nikolaikirche. Another relic from the von Weinberg estate is the Florentine fountain, an original 16th century renaissance sculpture which can be found in the Wallanlage park, next to the Nebbiensches Gartenhaus.

The Wollheim memorial in the Goethe University grounds, Frankfurt.

The Goethe University grounds in the Westend, house the Wollheim memorial, dedicated to slave labourers forced to work at IG Farben during the second world war. The main university building is the former IG Farben headquarters. The public are free to walk around the university grounds which connect up with the Grüneburgpark, and the Botanical Gardens.

From Frankfurt (FRA) airport into Frankfurt city

Print friendly PDF version: From Frankfurt airport into Frankfurt city

Frankfurt is the ideal airport for a layover. It only takes 20 minutes, by train, to travel from Frankfurt airport into the heart of Frankfurt and then spend the day sight-seeing, shopping and grabbing a bite to eat before heading back to the airport for your connecting flight.

Train station at the airport and buying a ticket

The train station for local trains into Frankfurt city centre is downstairs in Terminal 1 under Hall B. Once downstairs, the first thing to do is buy a ticket from one of the ticket machines. There are two banks of ticket machine - make sure you use a green machine (for local tickets) and not the red machines. You then have several choices of ticket:

• single journey tickets which cost 5,80€ (a return = 11,60€).

• a day travel card which costs 11,30€ (cheaper than buying a return ticket) This ticket permits you to travel on all the city transport for the whole day.

• a group travel card which costs 19,10€ and permits up to 5 people to travel together on all the city transport for the whole day, and is excellent value if there are two or more of you.

You will need cash, or a credit/debit card with a PIN to purchase tickets from the ticket machines.

The video below shows you how to buy a ticket:

Which train?

S-bahn trains, S8 & S9, run every 15 minutes from Platform 1 and travel directly to Hauptwache and Konstablerwache, the two most central stations in Frankfurt.

After you have bought your ticket, head downstairs to Platform 1 and wait for an S8 or S9. Frankfurt has a barrier-free transport system so you just show your ticket to the inspector on the train during your journey.

It's six stops and 20 minutes to the centre of town. The stops on the way are: Gateway Gardens, Stadion, Niederrad, Hauptbahnhof, Taunusanlage, Hauptwache and Konstablerwache. Alight at Hauptwache or Konstablerwache for the centre Frankfurt.

If you need to get to another location, look up stations and tram-stops using local travel maps on the RMV local transport pages.

In Frankfurt city centre

Once in Frankfurt there is plenty to see and do. The old town is down by the river near the cathedral, museums are centrally located and there are plenty of restaurants, cafes and bakeries selling food and drinks. On a fine day you can take a Primus Line, local river cruise which only takes 110 minutes, or head up to the top of the Main Tower and enjoy the views across the whole of the Frankfurt and beyond. Click on this link indexing various blog pages offering detailed information on places to eat and more ideas.

Over the summer months there is usually an outdoor festival being hosted in the city centre and whatever the theme of the festival you can be sure to find bratwurst, beer and local wine.

Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday the city has a Farmers' market (details in German listed here). Thursday and Saturday the market is on Konstablerwache, and on Friday it's on Schillerstraße, close to the Stock Exchange. These markets are a real slice of local Frankfurt life and are well worth a visit.   

Returning to the airport

For your return journey to the airport go to either Hauptwache or Konstablerwache station and follow signs for the S-bahn. Wait on platform 3 for the S8 or S9 train which run every 15 minutes.

Liebfrauen Church and flower market

Frankfurt Römer (town hall)

Frankfurt Hauptwache

Frankfurt cathedral (Kaiserdom)

 

Many of Frankfurt's museums are free on the last Saturday of the month

SaTOURday - free entry

On the last Saturday of every month the museums of Frankfurt open their doors and offer free entrance, this event is known as SaTOURday. There are a few museums who exempt themselves from SaTOURday as follows:

• In August and December there is no SaTOURday at any museum

• The following museums do not participate in SaTOURday and still charge an entrance fee, but check the Museumsufer website in case additional museums are added to the list:

  • The Film Museum (Deutschen Filmmuseum)

  • EXPERIMINTA Science Centre

  • Goethe House Museum (Goethe-Haus)

  • Communication Museum (Museum für Kommunikation)

  • Senckenberg Natural Science Museum (Naturmuseum Senckenberg)

  • The Palm Garden (Palmengarten)

  • The Städel (although not on the Museumsufer exemption list, a reader recently reported that he had to pay despite it being SaTOURday)

A huge variety of museums within walking distance

During the winter months the museums are great places to go and get away from the cold outdoors and there are 34 museums to choose from. Information about the museums can be found, in English, on the Museums Embankment website.

The variety of museums is astounding; modern art, classic art, photography, film, natural history and many of them are within walking distance of each other along the Museumsufer on the south bank of the River Main (see image below and this map link will take you to the original map)

The curators have done an incredible job of raising the profile of Frankfurt's museums and, as a result, World class exhibitions regularly visit the city and for example the Schirn Art Hall has worked in conjunction with the Tate, London and the Centre Pompidou. Many of the museums have a cafe, accessible without paying an entrance fee, that offer freshly made lunch options, drinks and cakes too.

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Map of the Museums located centrally in frankfurt

Value for money cards

If you live in Frankfurt and like to visit the museums frequently then the Museums Embankment card is great value for money and, once bought, offers free entrance to over 34 museums and all exhibitions. Just ask for a museums card at the reception of any museum when you visit. You'll be issued with a temporary paper pass which is usable until your official pass is sent in the post.

• Adult card - 89€ annually (2023)

• A family of two adults and two children 150€ annually

• Students (between 6 and 18) 45€ annually

Value for tourists and visitors

If you are simply visiting Frankfurt then an alternative option is the MuseumsuferUfer ticket which offers free entrance to 39 museums and exhibitions for two full days. It costs just 21€ (2023) or for a family of two adults and two children, a ticket costs just 32€. Again, just ask at the reception when you visit the first museum and they will issue the ticket. If the museums are closed on one of the days you are visiting (museums are shut on Mondays) then the ticket is valid for the following day.

The Städel museum, opposite the Holbeinsteg (bridge) on the Museumsufer

Around Lokalbahnhof

Lokalbahnhof is associated with being a bus (numbers 30 & 36), tram (numbers 15, 16 & 18) and S-Bahn stop. Many alight here on their way to a night out in Alt Sachsenhausen or for a meet-up with friends in the Brückenviertal. Rarely does anyone talk of Lokalbahnhof as a destination in it’s own right. But that’s about to change, so read on…

As you step out of the S-Bahn the immediate attraction is the Alte Liebe bar. Long established in Sachsenhausen, Alte Liebe relocated to the corner of Darmstädter Landstraße and Mühlbruchstraße approximately four years ago. With the vibe of a traditional pub, regualr revues and even musical bingo nights, the Alte Liebe attracts a loyal following.

Directly opposite Alte Liebe, across the busy Darmstädter Landstraße and on the corner of Hedderichstraße is Eiscafe L’Incontro. A long standing, family run, Italian gelato cafe. If you get the chance, try the Joghurt-Birne ice-cream. It’s delicious, and you can’t find it anywhere else in Frankfurt!

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Ice-cream cafe - L'Incontro

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Barrio Cafe

L’Incontro is at one end of a row of shops on Darmstädter Landstraße. Over the past two years, new retailers have taken up vacant space and there is now a mix of independent stores which serve the local community. Møbel (no. 50) has some great present ideas and is worth a browse. Blumenlokal (no. 44) is the “go-to” flower shop in the area and most recently Barrio cafe (no. 42) has opened up and has already attained a reputation for its breakfasts and freshly prepared lunch menus.

Another well established and popular bar and restaurant is Lokalbahnhof, Darmstädter Landstraße 14. Cosy in the winter and with a small outdoor garden open in the summer, Lokalbahnhof offers large plates of hearty food and, a not too shabby, variety of vegan and vegetarian options too.

A little further up and on the other side of Darmstädter Landstraße at number three, is Kaliko. Small and quaint, with a great menu that has weekly updates, Kaliko is a rarity among restaurants in that it is open on a Monday but be aware it is closed to on a Saturday!

Leaving Darmstädter Landstraße and walking along Dreieichstraße will lead you to number 54 and the Harmonie Art House Cinema. This cinema specialises in showing films in the original language and has a very nice bar area to and a selection of small snacks.

Directly opposite the Harmonie cinema is a shopping complex, the Meichsner & Dennerlein bookstore has a lovely selection of postcards and greetings cards. Meanwhile outside the Rewe supermarket exit is a book exchange. It’s a tall glass cabinet where books are donated and anyone can help themselves.

If flat whites and other speciality coffee brews are your thing, then you only have to walk up Dreichstrase a little further and turn right into Große Rittergasse to find Café Under Pressure, Große Rittergasse 20.

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Cafe Under Pressure

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Kaliko

By the end of an afternoon browsing and getting to know Lokalbahnhof a little better, a glass of wine might be in order. Urbans & anders, Dreieichstraße 20, stands on the corner where Große Rittergasse leads into the night life of Alt Sachsenhausen. It’s a friendly wine bar with some excellent German wines among its list of wines by the glass and bottle.

I hope you enjoy getting to know this little area of Frankfurt. If there is something I have missed out, add a comment and I shall investigate!

How to download and use Voicemap for your Walk-Frankfurt audio tours

How to...

download and use Voicemap

In conjunction with the Walk-Frankfurt audio guided tours, here is a how-to guide on downloading and using the voicemap app.

How does VoiceMap work?
VoiceMap uses your phone’s GPS to play commentary automatically. Once you have the Voicemap app and have downloaded an audio tour, plug in your earphones, press start , and put your phone away. A voice will tell you where to go, and the next part of the story will only play once you move on. You can walk at your own pace, and stop for pictures along the way. Just listen out for directions, and if you can’t remember where to go, take a look at the map on your screen.

 How do I install the app?
You can download the app for Android devices in the Google Play Store, and iPhone in the App Store. Just search “VoiceMap” and look out for the red headphones icon. Once it’s installed, sign up.

 Why do I have to sign up?
Once you download a VoiceMap tour, it’s yours forever. You need to have an account so that you can access your tours. 

Do I have to be near a WiFi network?
You can use WiFi or data to download the app and the tour. Wait for all the files to download, and then you can disconnect and turn off your mobile data. All the audio files and maps will work offline. Make sure you don’t put your phone on airplane mode. That turns your GPS off, so nothing will play.

 How much does the app cost?
The app is free to download. Frankfurt tours are individually priced, starting at $4.99.

 How do I play the audio tracks?
Don’t worry about it! VoiceMap will take care of all that. You don’t need to manually play, pause or skip to the next track. The app does all of that for you.

How do I start?
Once the tour has finished downloading, just press start and the tour will begin right away. If nothing is playing:
- check you are on the right tour,
- check you are close enough to the start point. Voicemap tells you how many meters to the start point and starts automatically once you arrive.

What's my password?
It’s the password you entered when you signed up to the Voicemap App. If you can’t remember, you can reset it at the website (voicemap.me) or in the app.

 Can I listen to a route I’ve downloaded more than once? Do routes expire?
Once you download a tour, it’s yours to keep. You can delete it from your phone, and still
re-download it at any time in the future.

 Nothing is playing! What do I do?
Check the following:

1. Is your GPS turned on? VoiceMap needs GPS to be enabled to play audio.
2. Is your phone on airplane mode? If yes, turn it off. Airplane mode disables your GPS.
3. Have you allowed VoiceMap to access your location? If not, go to your location settings and allow the app to use your location.
4. Did you allow all the tracks to download completely?
5. Is your volume turned up, and are your earphones working properly?

 Can I stop a tour?
You can stop whenever you like. The tour will resume automatically when you reach the next point of interest. Just make sure you don’t close the app, or you’ll have to start from the beginning. Remember that when you start walking again, it’ll carry on automatically, so put your earphones in before you get going.

Are there other tours?
As well as the Walk-Frankfurt walking tours, VoiceMap offers tours in over 45 cities, each one unique and created by passionate locals. You can browse the city list to see what’s available.