Federweisser - a special wine available after the grape harvest

What is Federweisser?

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Federweisser suddenly appears at the end of September in towns and cities within the German wine regions. Some towns host a Federweisser Fest whilst in cities like Frankfurt Federweisser appears at the local farmer's markets. The season is short, so enjoy it while you can. 

Federweisser is known as "new" wine. After the juice has been extracted from the harvested grapes, yeast is added to the must (juice) and fermentation begins. As fermentation progresses, the alcohol levels are monitored and once they reach 4%, the juice can be drunk in the form of Federweisser. The wine is still actively fermenting, so expect a glass of cloudy, refreshingly prickly wine which has a natural sweetness to it. The name means "feather white" and derives from the white'ish appearance of small yeast particles floating in the glass which, some say, looks like small white feathers. Don't be fooled by it's sweet taste though, Federweisser can achieve an alcohol content of up to 10%.

Federweisser - cloudy in appearance and naturally sweet

In the Rhineland you'll see Federweisser written Federweißer. In other regions it is also known as Süßer, Sauser and Neue Wein. Roterweisser is the same product but made from red grapes hence it has a deep pink appearance. Because the wine is still fermenting and releasing carbon dioxide, bottles cannot be fully sealed and are left partially open to let the gas escape. As a result transportation of Federweisser is a delicate business and this is why it is rarely available outside of the wine regions. Occasionally you can find a bottle in local supermarkets, but be warned - if the bottle is unsealed (a sign of good quality) you'll have to carry your precious cargo upright all the way home!

Traditionally Zwiebelkuchen (onion cake) is eaten with Federweisser and it's a heavenly combination. The Rhineland version of Zwiebelkuchen is a thin base of bread like dough topped with a good depth of soft, sweet onions, sautéed with speck and a sprinkling of caraway seeds. This recipe http://mybestgermanrecipes.com/german-onion-tart/ is the most authentic I have found.

Where to find Federweisser in Frankfurt

In Frankfurt the Liebfrauenberg is hosting a 10 day Federweisser Fest starting on September 27th 2024. Federweisser is also available at the Rollanderhof wine outlets at the Kleinmarkthalle, the Thursday and Saturday farmer's market on Konstablerwacher and the weekly market on Schillerstraße (details about market days can be found here). In addition, Weinschirn, Römerberg 8 (an excellent wine bar close to the cathedral), stocks Federweisser so there is plenty of opportunity to try the new wine before the season finishes!

Rollanderhof, above the back exit of the Kleinmarkthalle, serving Federweisser!

What to do on a Sunday - visit Schwanheim

Updated 05.05.2021 - opening hours listed below may be affected by Covid 19 restrictions.

Schwanheim is a small Frankfurt suburb, easily reached travelling on the number 12 tram or by taking the number 51 or 62 bus. Schwanheim might be small but it has plenty of family attractions for a day out. As you alight from the tram, the first thing you will notice is the VGF Transport museum at the tram stop, open on Sundays from 10:00 until 17:00. It houses a variety of old time trams and vehicles, old signalling equipment and ticketing machines and is a great place for enthusiasts and children.

Entrance to the Transport Museum in Schwanheim next to the no. 12 tram stop. (Photo copyright © 2016 by Anne Noble)

Almost next door to the VGF museum is the Kobelt Zoo, *season opening beginning of May, it's a small petting zoo with free entry and open at the weekends (and public holidays) for the summer season until the end of September. Walk around the corner from the VGF museum onto Schwanheimer Bahnstraße and the zoo is on your left. Opening times are Saturdays from 14:00 until 19:00 and Sunday from 10:00 until 19:00. The zoo houses a few donkey's, rabbits, snakes and goats, to name but a few species,  and it's small and accessible. They have a cafe selling refreshments and cakes in case you are in need of a break. The zoo is dependent on donations so give generously on your way out as I'm sure you'll be impressed by the variety of animals and birds and the charming, relaxed setting.

REfreshments at the Kobelt Zoo.  (Photo copyright © 2016 by Anne Noble)

After visiting the zoo another local venue within a 5 minute walk is the Heimatmuseum, located at Alt Schwanheim 6. Normal opening hours are 14:00 to 16:00 on Sundays and entry is free. Information throughout the museum is written in German but it houses many interesting artefacts and there is plenty to see and enjoy given Schwanheim's rich history since 880, when the town was first officially recorded. 

Entrance to the Heimatmuseum, Alt Schwanheim 6. (Photo copyright © 2016 by Anne Noble)

When heading back to the tram after your day out don't miss out on an ice-cream from Eissalon Riviera, located at Alt Schwanheim 40. Either pick up an ice-cream to take away or sit down and relax whilst tucking into an ice-cream sundae. Family run, this ice-cream cafe is renown as one of the best in Frankfurt.

Eissalon Riviera, Alt schwanheim 40. (Photo copyright © 2016 by Anne Noble)

Another attraction in Schwanheim for the kids is the Waldspielpark, the Forest Playground. With water features, table tennis tables and mini golf it's an ideal way for kids to let off steam. The entrance is on Schwanheimer Bahnstraße, almost opposite the Kobalt Zoo entrance.

Special note for cyclists

It's a pleasant cycle ride from Frankfurt to Schwanheim. Simply follow the path along the southern bank of the River Main. When you reach the huge locks on the river, you are not far from Schwanheim town centre. Go beyond the locks and to the left you will see a collection of Schrebegartens (garden plots) and a sign proudly announcing "Zum Nussbaum", follow the path and you'll be at a classic Hessiche restaurant. Run by Polish nationals, the restaurant serves a delightful mix of traditional German and Polish fare. After refreshment at Zum Nussbaum, carry on heading west along the river path and within 300 metres you will see a bridge to the left which will take you up and over the busy road and into the heart of Schwanheim.          

Path along the River Main, close to "Zum NussBaum" (Photo copyright © 2016 by Anne Noble)

Apple wine - a speciality of Frankfurt

The 2024 Apfelweinfest is being hosted on Roßmarkt, in Frankfurt, until August 18th. If you are coming to Frankfurt then you should definitely try a glass or two of this beverage famed as the local drink of Hessen and commonly called Äppler. The name however is misleading being more like a cider than a wine with an average alcohol content of 4%. Also be aware it has a sour flavour which is why you often see the locals ordering a bottle of sparkling water, along side their bembel (jug) of apple wine, which they use to top up the drink and soften the sourness.

How to order your apple wine

When ordering by the glass,  apple wine 'pur' means it is pure apple wine. If you want your glass topped with a little water, then order an apple wine 'sauer' and if you need a little sweetness, then order an apple wine 'suss', in this case the glass is topped with a little lemonade.

Bembels (jugs) of apple wine always come 'pur' and you order by the number of glasses. E.g if you are with a group of 6 friends you might order a '6er' bembel which holds six glasses of apple wine. Don't forget to order a bottle of sparkling water for those in your group who want to soften down the flavour. Better still go to Kelterei Heil, a known and respected brand in Frankfurt, and they'll include a bottle of water with your bembel.

Kelterei Heil offering a 6er Bembel and bottle of water for 12€

One joy of the Apfelweinfest is trying apple wine from a variety of producers. Each brand has it's own flavour. Some producers offer unfilterred apple wine which is cloudy and labelled 'naturtrüb' whilst the more regular applewine is clear. Two producers offering naturtrüb at this years festival are Hofmann's and Trageser. My favourite regular apple wines offering a fresh taste are by Nöll, Walther and Stier This year Nöll, Walther and Stier have their stalls side by side, so not too far to wander to sample from all three!  Rosé apple wine is another variety worth a try and has a less sour taste. Nöll offer an Apfel-Secco which is milder and naturally sweet. 
 

Apple wine is always served in a 'gerippte' glass. The pretty diamond shape etching serves a practical purpose - it's to stop the glass from slipping through your greasy fingers, which is a very likely peril after a bratwurst or two. This year the Apfelweinfest is hosting a variety of foods, including vegetarian and vegan, fish and chips, traditional green sauce and the ever present Schwenkgrill (swinging grill over an open fire) for the meat eaters. 

If you've missed the festival but still want to try apple wine, try visiting one of the famous apple wine taverns in Sachsenhausen - a few of my favourites are on my web page, click on the link and scroll down to Applewine taverns in Sachsenhausen to see a list.

A traditional 'Gerippte' glass containing a sample of Hofmann's naturtrüb Äppler - Zum Wohl!

Jewish history in Frankfurt

Frankfurt has a Jewish history dating back to at least the 12th century and there is some excellent information on the web to guide you to key cultural sites within Frankfurt, http://en.juedisches-frankfurt.de/
 
There are two museums in Frankfurt city centre dedicated to Jewish heritage in the city, both offering extensive information in English as well as German. The museum of the Jewish Ghetto, Batonnstrasse 47, displays the original foundation stones of the Frankfurt ghetto, first built in 1462. The Jewish Museum Frankfurt, Bertha-Pappenheim-Platz 1, has exhibits detailing Jewish life in Frankfurt from the 1800’s onwards.
In addition to these two central museums, is the Bildungsstätte Anne Frank, a small exhibit dedicated to Anne Frank, whose family lived in Frankfurt until they moved to Amsterdam to avoid the persecution of the National Socialist regime. This museum is easily accessible by taking the U-bahn (1,2,3 or 8) to Dornbusch. During my last visit they were exhibiting the original diary of Anne Frank.

An exhibit from the Bildungsstätte - Anne Frank in Frankfurt

As well as the information listed on web about Frankfurt Jewish culture there are some additional places to visit which have a Jewish connection. Up near the old opera house is the Rothschildpark, situated on land where the Rothschild's once lived. A placard by the park entrance, on Bockenheimer Landstraße, offers information and photos about the family home that once stood there.

Not far from Konstablerwache is a remnant of the old city wall, the Staufenmauer, dating back to the 12th century. It's also the north entrance to what used to be the Jewish ghetto, first constructed in 1462 and, up until 1815, Jewish residents were confined to living there. Today nothing exists of the old ghetto but walk through the old north entrance and head south towards the Jewish ghetto museum (Museum Judengasse) and you will be treading the path of where the ghetto used to stand.

Staufenmauer, the 12th century city wall and the entrance to the Jewish ghetto.

As you reach the Jewish ghetto museum, on the south east corner of Kurt-Schumacher-Straße and Battonstraße, look out for some brass plates laid into the ground with house names on them, e.g. Goldenes Schaf. The brass plates outline where some of the ghetto houses previously stood and are part of the museum exhibit. The entrance to the Jewish ghetto museum is 30 metres along Battonstraße and it is the ideal place to visit for more information about life in the ghetto.
Next door to the museum, is the old Jewish cemetery, in use from the 1200's through to the 1800's. Around the cemetery walls are listed almost 12,000 names, the names of the Jewish Frankfurt citizens murdered during the holocaust. Follow the wall to the south side and into the Neue Borne Platz, previously the old Jewish market place, today it is a permanent place of remembrance. If you wish to enter the cemetery a key can beborrowed from the museum, but only on production of a valid ID card.

A name Block from the Jewish cemetery wall memorial.

This link also gives details of the other two Jewish cemeteries in Frankfurt, which are both accessible via a short ride on the U-bahn.    

In the heart of the old town, on Römerberg stands the Alte Nikolaikirche. Step inside and notice the colourful stained glass windows in the south wall and one to the west. These windows formerly belonged to Carl von Weinberg. Born into a Jewish family in the 1880's he converted to the evangelical faith however, because of his Jewish beginnings, the National Socialist regime reclassified Carl von Weinberg and forced him to sell his estate. The window's creator,  Lena von Schauroth, took the windows for save keeping and in 1951 permission was given for the windows to be installed in the Alte Nikolaikirche. Another relic from the von Weinberg estate is the Florentine fountain, an original 16th century renaissance sculpture which can be found in the Wallanlage park, next to the Nebbiensches Gartenhaus.

The Wollheim memorial in the Goethe University grounds, Frankfurt.

The Goethe University grounds in the Westend, house the Wollheim memorial, dedicated to slave labourers forced to work at IG Farben during the second world war. The main university building is the former IG Farben headquarters. The public are free to walk around the university grounds which connect up with the Grüneburgpark, and the Botanical Gardens.

Navigating around Frankfurt's Christmas markets

Updated: 24th November 2023 - The heart of the Frankfurt Christmas market is on the Römerberg in the old town. Here you will find the town hall, the 30 meter high Christmas tree and plenty of stalls to browse. Glühwein is available at just about every other stall, but read on for a few tips on the best places to try this warming, hot, mulled wine. The map below details the different areas in the city centre where the Christmas market is hosted. 

Map of Christmas market areas around central Frankfurt

Frankfurt Christmas market on the Römerberg

The main hub of the Frankfurt Christmas market is indicated by the orange area at the southern tip of the map above. It's the traditional site of the market, on the Römerberg, dating all the way back to the 14th century.

Frankfurt Christmas Arts Fairs

Prior to browsing the stalls and commencing with the drinking, peak behind the huge Christmas tree to find the entrance to the town hall and step inside to for the annual Christmas Arts Fair (2nd - 22nd December). Local artists sell their wares directly to the public and there is a lovely mix of jewellery, pottery, sculpture as well as framed pictures and photographs.
There is also the St. Pauls Church Arts Fair (22nd November - 22nd December). Head into the church and down into the basement to see a collection of art by local artists.

Frankfurt Römerberg - town hall and Christmas tree

A highlight of the Christmas market on the Römerberg is the carousel. It's not just for children so you should definitely have a quick ride before moving on. From the carousel, if you head toward the Schirn Art Gallery you'll pass a few stalls on your right. One stall sells hand-made wooden decorations which make great mementos and can easy be packed into luggage if you’re travelling this Christmas. Beyond the wooden decoration stall and to the left is a row of small sheds. This is where you'll find some of the best home-made Glühwein in Frankfurt. The locals hang out here, sipping a cup of hot wine after work and it gets busy! At the other end of the row of sheds is the Bethmännchen stall selling baked marzipan treats, only to be found in Frankfurt.

Glühwein stand at the back of the Römerberg - popular with the locals!

Frankfurt Christmas market on Paulsplatz

Another area of the Christmas market to explore is on Paulsplatz. (the area marked in purple on the map). Next to the St. Paul's church is Wagner's Honey House. It's a traditional timber-framed (Fachwerk) house converted especially for the Christmas market. Upstairs is a variety of honey based drinks and liqueurs to buy whilst downstairs has an amazing variety of honey. Beside St. Pauls church is one of my favourite hot chestnut sellers and directly opposite that stall is the Lion's Club Glühwein stall selling a good quality Glühwein. There is also a traditional Tiroler wood carver stall, Bachmann selling hand crafted nativity scenes and figures. 

Frankfurt Christmas market on Friedrich-Stoltze-Platz

From Paulsplatz head over to Friedrich-Stoltze-Platz (marked on the map in pink), it has outdoor seating and a great selection of things to eat from vegan specialities to traditional Reibekuchen (potato cakes with apple sauce). At this "Platz" you will also find the best Feuerzangenbowle, a potent Glühwein containing caramelised sugar and rum.  Every time someone leaves a tip, the bell is rung and more rum is poured over the caramelising sugar. Like I say, it's potent!

Potato cakes with apple sauce and a cup of Feuerzangenbowle

Frankfurt Christmas market on Hauptwache

From Friedrich Stoltze Platz, head to Hauptwache (outlined in Blue on the map) for more Christmas cheer. Close to the children's Christmas train is a lovely stall selling traditional wood toys. Head towards the Zeil and you will find another "Wagner's Honey House". The novelty in this location is how the house contains a large statue of David and Goliath within it - go inside and take a look!

Frankfurt Christmas market on at the Thurn und Taxis Palace

The markets close by 9pm but if you are still hankering for one last Glühwein before you head home, go to the Weihnachtsmarkt at the Thurn und Taxis Palais (top of the map outlined in green. Opening dates: 9th Nov - 22nd Dec 2023) Thursday to Saturday the market stays open until 11pm (10pm on other evenings) and offers yet more food and drink for the late night party lovers.

Sachsenhausen Christmas markets

The Sachsenhäuser Weihnachtsmarkt (20th Nov - 21st Dec 2023, but closed on Nov 26th!)) can be found close to the Goethe Turm (Bus 47 or 48) on the edge of the city woods and is known for it’s cosy ambience and great food and drink.
Meanwhile Weihnachtsmarkt Alt Sachsenhausen (1st - 22nd December) takes place on Paradiesplatz, offering the chance to grab some Glühwein before a night enjoying the multiple bars all around.

Which ever one you choose, after a night out at a Frankfurt Weihnachtsmarkt it's sure to be a Merry Christmas!

The following link offers some more detail on special things to do and see at the Frankfurt Christ market.

From Frankfurt (FRA) airport into Frankfurt city

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Frankfurt is the ideal airport for a layover. It only takes 20 minutes, by train, to travel from Frankfurt airport into the heart of Frankfurt and then spend the day sight-seeing, shopping and grabbing a bite to eat before heading back to the airport for your connecting flight.

Train station at the airport and buying a ticket

The train station for local trains into Frankfurt city centre is downstairs in Terminal 1 under Hall B. Once downstairs, the first thing to do is buy a ticket from one of the ticket machines. There are two banks of ticket machine - make sure you use a green machine (for local tickets) and not the red machines. You then have several choices of ticket:

• single journey tickets which cost 5,80€ (a return = 11,60€).

• a day travel card which costs 11,30€ (cheaper than buying a return ticket) This ticket permits you to travel on all the city transport for the whole day.

• a group travel card which costs 19,10€ and permits up to 5 people to travel together on all the city transport for the whole day, and is excellent value if there are two or more of you.

You will need cash, or a credit/debit card with a PIN to purchase tickets from the ticket machines.

The video below shows you how to buy a ticket:

Which train?

S-bahn trains, S8 & S9, run every 15 minutes from Platform 1 and travel directly to Hauptwache and Konstablerwache, the two most central stations in Frankfurt.

After you have bought your ticket, head downstairs to Platform 1 and wait for an S8 or S9. Frankfurt has a barrier-free transport system so you just show your ticket to the inspector on the train during your journey.

It's six stops and 20 minutes to the centre of town. The stops on the way are: Gateway Gardens, Stadion, Niederrad, Hauptbahnhof, Taunusanlage, Hauptwache and Konstablerwache. Alight at Hauptwache or Konstablerwache for the centre Frankfurt.

If you need to get to another location, look up stations and tram-stops using local travel maps on the RMV local transport pages.

In Frankfurt city centre

Once in Frankfurt there is plenty to see and do. The old town is down by the river near the cathedral, museums are centrally located and there are plenty of restaurants, cafes and bakeries selling food and drinks. On a fine day you can take a Primus Line, local river cruise which only takes 110 minutes, or head up to the top of the Main Tower and enjoy the views across the whole of the Frankfurt and beyond. Click on this link indexing various blog pages offering detailed information on places to eat and more ideas.

Over the summer months there is usually an outdoor festival being hosted in the city centre and whatever the theme of the festival you can be sure to find bratwurst, beer and local wine.

Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday the city has a Farmers' market (details in German listed here). Thursday and Saturday the market is on Konstablerwache, and on Friday it's on Schillerstraße, close to the Stock Exchange. These markets are a real slice of local Frankfurt life and are well worth a visit.   

Returning to the airport

For your return journey to the airport go to either Hauptwache or Konstablerwache station and follow signs for the S-bahn. Wait on platform 3 for the S8 or S9 train which run every 15 minutes.

Liebfrauen Church and flower market

Frankfurt Römer (town hall)

Frankfurt Hauptwache

Frankfurt cathedral (Kaiserdom)

 

Many of Frankfurt's museums are free on the last Saturday of the month

SaTOURday - free entry

On the last Saturday of every month the museums of Frankfurt open their doors and offer free entrance, this event is known as SaTOURday. There are a few museums who exempt themselves from SaTOURday as follows:

• In August and December there is no SaTOURday at any museum

• The following museums do not participate in SaTOURday and still charge an entrance fee, but check the Museumsufer website in case additional museums are added to the list:

  • The Film Museum (Deutschen Filmmuseum)

  • EXPERIMINTA Science Centre

  • Goethe House Museum (Goethe-Haus)

  • Communication Museum (Museum für Kommunikation)

  • Senckenberg Natural Science Museum (Naturmuseum Senckenberg)

  • The Palm Garden (Palmengarten)

  • The Städel (although not on the Museumsufer exemption list, a reader recently reported that he had to pay despite it being SaTOURday)

A huge variety of museums within walking distance

During the winter months the museums are great places to go and get away from the cold outdoors and there are 34 museums to choose from. Information about the museums can be found, in English, on the Museums Embankment website.

The variety of museums is astounding; modern art, classic art, photography, film, natural history and many of them are within walking distance of each other along the Museumsufer on the south bank of the River Main (see image below and this map link will take you to the original map)

The curators have done an incredible job of raising the profile of Frankfurt's museums and, as a result, World class exhibitions regularly visit the city and for example the Schirn Art Hall has worked in conjunction with the Tate, London and the Centre Pompidou. Many of the museums have a cafe, accessible without paying an entrance fee, that offer freshly made lunch options, drinks and cakes too.

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Map of the Museums located centrally in frankfurt

Value for money cards

If you live in Frankfurt and like to visit the museums frequently then the Museums Embankment card is great value for money and, once bought, offers free entrance to over 34 museums and all exhibitions. Just ask for a museums card at the reception of any museum when you visit. You'll be issued with a temporary paper pass which is usable until your official pass is sent in the post.

• Adult card - 89€ annually (2023)

• A family of two adults and two children 150€ annually

• Students (between 6 and 18) 45€ annually

Value for tourists and visitors

If you are simply visiting Frankfurt then an alternative option is the MuseumsuferUfer ticket which offers free entrance to 39 museums and exhibitions for two full days. It costs just 21€ (2023) or for a family of two adults and two children, a ticket costs just 32€. Again, just ask at the reception when you visit the first museum and they will issue the ticket. If the museums are closed on one of the days you are visiting (museums are shut on Mondays) then the ticket is valid for the following day.

The Städel museum, opposite the Holbeinsteg (bridge) on the Museumsufer