Frankfurt Carnival (Karneval) Parade
Dates and a brief history of the Frankfurt Kareval (carnival), including the route of the carnival parade.
Frankfurt Karneval Parade
The date of the Karneval parade relates to Lent and therefore changes each year, in 2025 the parades are on the 1st and 2nd of March (see further dates below). In Frankfurt the main parade takes place on a Sunday and commences at Westhafen and takes the following route to the Römerberg:
Untermainbrücke - Neue Mainzer Straße - Friedensstraße - Kaiserstraße - Roßmarkt - Goetheplatz - Rathenauplatz - Biebergasse - Hauptwache -Katharienenpforte - Bleidenstraße - Liebfrauenberg - Töngesgasse - Fahrgasse - Battonnstraße - Kurt-Schumacher-Straße - Fahrgasse - Braubachstraße - Römerberg
Route of the carnival parade through Frankfurt city centre.
Childrens Karneval Parade
On the Saturday before the main parade Frankfurt hosts a Children's Karneval Parade, usually starting at Hauptwache and walking through to the Römerberg.
"Frankfurt Helau!" at the Karveval Parade
Karneval History
In Germany carnival is associated with the predominantly Roman Catholic states. Frankfurt however, maintains it’s carnival tradition because of historical ties to the Holy Roman Empire as both the election and coronation city of the Emperors. Today in Frankfurt the celebration mainly takes place in the form of parades and is a fun event for adults and children alike. For a full-on carnival experience head to the Rhineland cities of Köln, Düsseldorf and Mainz. The extensive festivities developed in these cities as a way of being subversive towards the occupying forces, e.g. the Prussians and the French, during the early 1800's. It was an opportunity to parody the occupiers and the military and still today parades march by with people dressed up in military costumes.
Carnival officially commences on 11th November at 11:11, but the key celebrations start on the Thursday before the beginning of Lent and end by Shrove Tuesday. The main event is the street parade. Highly decorated floats pass by throwing sweets for the children and marching bands, some dressed up in military uniforms and others in garish costume, provide musical entertainment. The crowd joins in by dressing up too.
Why do parades start at 12:11pm?
Why start a parade at 12:11pm and not 12 o'clock? One theory is the the number eleven, pronounced "elf" in German is an acronym of the French revolution cry of egalité, liberté, fraternité and the number 11 was a reference to the struggle of the German states, who in the early 1800's, were demanding democracy and liberty from the ruling classes.
Happy Karneval everyone! PS: Listen out for the traditional Frankfurt carnival cry of "Frankfurt Helau!"
Future Karneval parade dates
2024: February 10th - 11th.
2025: March 1st - 2nd.
2026: February 14th - 16th.
2027: February 6th - 7th.
That's right, just trundle your canon across the town square, why don't you!
Special delights at the Frankfurt Christmas Market
The 2018 Frankfurt Christmas Market from November 26th to December 22nd. One of the oldest , most traditional Christmas markets in Germany.
Winter is coming and so are the Christmas markets. Frankfurt am Main hosts an extensive, nostalgic (it dates back to the 14th century) Christmas market running from the Hauptwache, down the Neue Krämer and into the heart of the old town. Glühwein on every corner, roasted chestnuts, kartoffelpuffer (aka potato cakes) and other local delicacies provide sustenance as you wander through the fair.
The Christmas Market at the heart of the old town by the town hall
Many stalls proudly sell traditional, German crafted, wooden decorations from the Erzgebirge region. Directly outside St. Paul's a stall sells the grey and blue pottery associated with the city's apple wine taverns, and next door stands Wagner's Honey House. It's an original 300 year old timber-frame house erected especially for the Christmas market to sell all manner of honey based products.
At the heart of the old town, on Römerberg, stands the Christmas tree fulling the criteria that it must be at least as high as the roof of the town hall. Decorated with over 5000 lights it makes a spectacular centre piece. Below it is the nativity scene and nearby stands the beautifully restored carousel which delights both children and adults alike.
For a typical Frankfurt gift, seek out the baked marzipan Brenten and Bethmännchen. Stranger still are the Quetschemännchen, little figures made from dried fruits and nuts. Tradition has it that a suitor would give his sweetheart a Quetschemännchen to show his affection. If the young lady kept the gift then her heart was his but, if she sent it back he had not secured her love. Not to worry, a glass or two of Glühwein and friendly camaraderie would help him get over the rejection, especially if he headed to the Weinschirn, at the back of the Christmas market towards the cathedral, where many local Frankfurters congregate for the best glühwein in the city.
Just when you think you have exhausted the Christmas market and are heading home, steer course towards Friedrich-Stoltze-Platz and you'll stumble into yet more revelry. The square is decked with pink tables and benches and surrounded by a variety of food and drink stalls and is the perfect place to stop, eat and soak up (or further ignite) the evening's excesses. Here you will find the best Feuerzangenbowle. What is that you ask? Atop a huge cauldron of Glühwein hangs a rum soaked sugar loaf which is set alight and gently drips it's caramelised syrup into the wine below. Served with a slice of orange, it's glühwein with an extra punch!
PS: Each year Frankfurt issues a new Glühwein mug. You pay a deposit for the mug when you buy your Glühwein, so no one minds if you simply keep the mug as a souvenir.
Still not ready to go home? Then head to the Weihnachtshütte at the Thurn & Taxis Palais which stays open until 11pm.
This link offers a map of all the Christmas Market locations mentioned in the above article.
This link lists special events at the Christmas Market, by date.
Keep an eye on my Facebook page over the coming weeks where I'll be offering insights to the best Christmas stalls and features during this year's Christmas Market.
Frankfurt Christmas Market Carousel (Its not just for Children!)
2019 Frankfurt Christmas market events calendar
Frankfurt Christmas market special events by date - the peeling of the city church bells, special steam engine rides, Christmas concerts and music and special Christmas arts fairs too!
The Frankfurt 2019 Christmas Market opens on Monday November 25th and runs until December 21st. It’s opening hours are 10am - 9pm Monday to Saturday and 11am - 9pm on Sundays. In the city centre the Christmas market is hosted on the Römerberg, Friedrich-Stoltze-Platz and Hauptwache. Additional markets are held at the Thurn & Taxis Palais, and the Goetheturm and Paradiesplatz in Sachsenhausen.
Listed below, by date are the events taking place during the Frankfurt Christmas market. The following link has a map of the Christmas market locations. Meanwhile, click on this link for a general guide which will get you round to all the central Christmas market sites and has suggestions for typical Frankfurt Christmas treats.
Daily - at 9.05am, 12.05pm and 5.05pm the beautiful carillon bells of St. Nicholas church (Römerberg) ring out. Played by Yuko Tajima
25 Nov - 5pm Official Opening of the Frankfurt Christmas Market, outside the Römer (town hall).
25 Nov - 22 Dec - Opening of the Weihnachtsmarkt Goetheturm. Daily from 4pm. Click here for details.
25 Nov - 31 Dec - Opening of the Thurn & Taxis Weihnachtsmarkt. Daily from 4pm- 11pm. Click here for details.
26 Nov - 22 Dec Daily 12pm – 8pm Christmas Arts Market in St. Paul's Church (Paulskirche). An arts fair hosted by local artists with items for sale.
27 Nov - 6pm Brass chorus from the balcony of the St. Nicholas church (Römerberg).
29 Nov - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
30 Nov - 4.30pm Pealing of the church bells 50 bells from 10 churches ring out across Frankfurt simultaneously.
30 Nov - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
30 Nov - 6pm Brass chorus from the balcony of the St. Nicholas church (Römerberg).
01 Dec - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
4 Dec - 6pm Brass chorus from the balcony of the St. Nicholas church (Römerberg).
06 Dec - 22 Dec Opening of the Alt-Sachsenhausen Christmas Market on Paradiesplatz Click here for details.
06 Dec - 5.30pm A visit from St. Nicholas, starting at the Römerberg stage by the town hall.
06 Dec – 21 Dec - Christmas Market Arts Fair in the Townhall (Römerhallen), daily from 12pm – 8pm. Entrance is behind the large Christmas tree! An arts fair hosted by local artists with items for sale including ceramics, photographs, sculptures and jewellery.
06 Dec - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
07 Dec - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
07 Dec - 6pm Brass chorus from the balcony of the St. Nicholas church (Römerberg).
08 Dec - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
11 Dec - 6pm Brass chorus from the balcony of the St. Nicholas church (Römerberg).
13 Dec - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
14 & 15 Dec - 11am - 8pm Historic steam engine rides with St. Nicolas - last ride at 7pm. Departing at the Eisener Steg. Tickets can be bought at embarkation or in advance. Click here for more information and timetable.
14 Dec - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
14 Dec - 6pm Brass chorus from the balcony of the St. Nicholas church (Römerberg).
15 Dec - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
18 Dec - 6pm Brass chorus from the balcony of the St. Nicholas church (Römerberg).
20 Dec - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
21 Dec - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
21 Dec - 6pm Brass chorus from the balcony of the St. Nicholas church (Römerberg).
22 Dec - 5.10pm Advents concert on the Römerberg.
24 Dec -5pm Pealing of the church bells, 50 bells from 10 churches ring out across Frankfurt simultaneously.
Festivals in and around Frankfurt during Summer 2019
A list of (mainly wine) festivals local to Frankfurt, sorted by date from July to October.
As you can imagine festivals are very much about food and drink, but some are dedicated to the local Rheingau wine. Whatever the festival there will always be plenty of food, plenty of drink and live music to dance away the warm summer evenings to.
In this list, festivals are listed by date and every festival is either in Frankfurt or is easily accessed by public transport. I've added a few notes about trains, but please check the RMV website for full details. If you want to explore every regional wine festival this summer, then the Rheingau Wein Fest brochure is a must! An additional resource is the Weinwanderung website where you can search for vineyard walks by region.
Festivals in June - July
26 June - 7 July - Frankfurt Opera Square Fest, at the Alte Oper. Lots of food and drink stands, plus entertainment starting at lunchtime and into the evening.
4 - 8 July - Darmstadt Heinerfest, opens at 18:00 on July 4th. An amazing array of events and attractions during this 5 day festival hosted all around Friedensplatz, with a firework display on Monday evening. (Numerous regional and S-bahns depart Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof on a regular basis)
5 - 8 July - Eltville Sekt & Biedermeier Festival, This is a lovely festival along the Rhein promenade at Eltville, celebrating the sparkling wine of the region. The link also contains details of all other wine festivals in the Rheingau region. (RB10 regional train departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every hour)
6 - 15 July - Frankfurt Höchst Altstadt Fest. Taking place at the Schloss and Justinusplatz. Daily from 1pm - midnight. Lots for the family to enjoy (S1 & S2 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof regularly throughout the week)
12 - 15 July - Wiesbaden Schierstein Harbour Fest, Wiesbaden-Ost. A festival along the Habour promenade with plenty of music, food and drinks. On Saturday morning there is a flea-market, and throughout the weekend a dragon boat regatta. (Wiesbaden-Ost is the closest station. S1, S8, S9 depart Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min)
12 - 15 July - Hochheimer Wine Fest, hosted in the old town of Hochheim. A chance to try Queen Victoria's favourite wine! (S1 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min throughout the week)
19 - 21 July - Frankfurt Christopher Street Day, Frankfurt. The main parade is on Saturday starting at Römerberg. Festivities all weekend long around Grosse Friedberger Strasse.
19 - 22 July - Geisenheimer Lindenfest. A wine festival hosted in the Geisenheim cathedral square and special opening of shops on Sunday 16th too. (Regional RB10 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof for Geisenheim Bahnhof every hour throughout the week)
19 July - 4 Aug - Frankfurt Sommerwerft Theatre Fest - along the northern banks, near Weselerwerft, of the Main river a festival of theatre and events for all the family. Of course they'll be drinks and food too!
20 - 21 July - Amazing Thailand Fest, Bad Homburg. A weekend of Thai celebrations, arts and food, hosted in the the Kurpark. (S5 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min on weekdays, every 30 mins at the weekend)
26 - 28 July - Mainz Light Fest All along the Rheinufer you will find food and drink stalls as you enjoy the festival of lights. Special ships are chartered to view the lights from the river and there is a spectacular firework and laser show on the Saturday evening. (S8 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 30 min throughout the week)
26 - 29 July - Frauensteiner Weinfest, Wiesbaden. Hosted on St. Georg and Katharina Platz, Georg Str. 2 in the centre of Wiesbaden. (Wiesbaden Hauptbahnhof is the closest station. S1, S8, S9 depart Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min)
26 Jul - 4 Aug - Dietzenbach Wine Fest Taking place on Europaplatz in the heart of Dietzenbach this festival draws vintners from around the region. Lots of live music. Opens at 5pm every day. (S2 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min on weekdays, every 30 mins at the weekend)
Festivals in August
Until 4 Aug - Dietzenbach Wine Fest Taking place on Europaplatz in the heart of Dietzenbach this festival draws vintners from around the region. Lots of live music. Opens at 5pm every day. (S2 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min on weekdays, every 30 mins at the weekend)
Until 4 Aug - Frankfurt Sommerwerft Theatre Fest - along the northern banks, near Weselerwerft, of the Main river a festival of theatre and events for all the family. Of course they'll be drinks and food too!
2 - 4 Aug - Frankfurt Street Food Fest hosted at Hauptwache in the centre of the city, pretty hard to miss! Great selection of foods and drinks. (Numerous S-Bahns and U-Bahns travel through Hauptwache every minute of the day)
2 - 4 Aug - Oberursel Weinfest hosted on the Marktplatz. (S5 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min on weekdays, every 30 mins at the weekend)
2 - 4 Aug - Wallufer Weindorf A wine festival in the oldest wine producing village of the Rheingau. Hosted along the river bank at La-Londe-Platz, Walluf. (Regional RB10 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every hour throughout the week)
2 - 5 Aug - Frankfurt Main River Fest Hosted along the northern bank of the Main River, by the Eisener Steg in the heart of the old town. Funfair rides and lots of fun for the family. Firework display on Monday (7th) night.
3 -4 Aug - Kronberg Art and Wine Fest. A weekend of festivities starting at 3pm on Saturday until 8pm and Sunday from 11am - 7pm. Stores are open on Sunday too! (S4 to Kronberg departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 30 min throughout the week)
9 - 11 Aug - Frankfurt Main-Matsuri Fest. The 2nd Main-Matsuri Fest in Frankfurt, hosted on the Walther-von-Cronberg Platz in Sachsenhausen. Full program details are in the link.
9 - 18 Aug - Frankfurt Applewine Fest. A celebration of apple wine takes place on Roßmarkt with multiple producers selling many varieties of apple wine. This blog post offers a guide to the apple wine varieties.
9 - 18 Aug - The Rheingauer Weinfest in Wiesbaden One of the largest wine festivals in the World which takes place at Wiesbaden’s Schlossplatz and Dern’sches Gelände. (Wiesbaden Hauptbahnhof is the closest station. S1, S8, S9 depart Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min)
11 Aug - Tomaten Fest at Gärtnerei Schecker, in Oberrad. Buy tomatoes by the basket full and snack on tomato based fare all around this wonderful hof. (The roads get very busy , so it’s best to cycle or take the tram to Wiener Str. and walk up)
15 Aug - Frankfurt Bahnhofsviertalnacht starting at 7pm. Roads are closed and the Bahnhofsviertal streets are handed over to the people of Frankfurt - drinks, food and music into the early hours.
16 - 18 Aug - Frankfurt 529th Fountain Festival in Sachsenhausen. A festival in old Sachsenhausen, celebrating the purity of the old water fountains. Yes, it has live music, food, drinks and a party atmosphere all weekend.
17 - 18 Aug - Frankfurt Bockenheim Weinfest, Weingarten, Bockenheim. Go along to Bockenheim and support their 3rd wine festival!
23 - 25 Aug - Frankfurt Museumsuferfest starting at 3pm on Friday and finishing with fireworks on Sunday night. Stalls of arts, crafts and old books along the Museumsufer. Whilst on the riverside on both the north and south side of the Main river are music, food and drink booths.
28 Aug - 6 Sept - Frankfurt Rheingauer Weinfest A wine festival hosting a huge variety of Rheingau wine producers along the Fressgass' (Große Bockenheimer Straße). This link offers a quick guide to German wine!
30 Aug - 1 Sept - Day of the open wine cellars in Rheingau. On these days, during September, vintners open the doors to their cellars and host special tastings and events. The link above lists the individual vintners and vineyards that are taking part. The event is repeated the following weekend on the 6th & 7th of September.
31 Aug - Frankfurt Deutschherrnfest. Along the Deutchherrnufer in Sachsenhausen from 3pm - 10pm. It s a day of fun for the family and entertainment into the evening. (Trams nr. 14 & 18 to Frankensteiner Platz)
Festivals in September
Until 6 Sept - Frankfurt Rheingauer Weinfest A wine festival hosting a huge variety of Rheingau wine producers along the Fressgass' (Große Bockenheimer Straße).
Until 1 Sept - Day of the open wine cellars in Rheingau. On these days, during September, vintners open the doors to their cellars and host special tastings and events. The link above lists the individual vintners and vineyards that are taking part. The event is repeated the following weekend on the 6th & 7th of September.
6 - 7 Sept - Day of the open wine cellars in Rheingau. On these days, during September, vintners open the doors to their cellars and host special tastings and events. The link above lists the individual vintners and vineyards that are taking part.
6 - 8 Sept Gartenfest Schloss Wolfsgarten, Langen. A must for gardening enthusiasts. Entrance fee applies.
6 - 15 Sept - Autumn Dippemess, Frankfurt Ratsweg. Fair rides and fun for all the family, starting 2pm. (Take the U7 to Eissporthalle.)
7 Sept - Frankfurt Brücken.Wall Fest. A festival celebrating the shops, market, restaurant and bars on Brückenstraße and Wallstraße in Sachsenhausen.
13 - 15 Sept Wine Market, Seligenstadt. Starting on Friday evening, throughout the weekend the old town is beautifully lit up in celebration of the wine fest. (Trains depart from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof and Südbahnhof. you might need to change trains at Hanau, although there are direct trains too)
13 - 15 Sept - Rumpenheimer Kunsttage. Rumpenheim has a community of artists who throw open their doors to visitors. It's a great weekend centred around the Rumpenheim Schloss (Travel requires a car or a bike, or a 3km walk across pretty countryside from Arthur-von-Weinberg-Steg (Tram nr. 11)
14 - 15 Sept - Weinfest am Morschberg, Geisenheim Local vintners offer samples of their Geisenheim wines. (Regional RB10 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof for Geisenheim Bahnhof every hour throughout the week and the footpath to Morschberg is well signposted (approx 20-30 minute walk)
19 - 21 Sept Frankfurt Harvest Festival, on Roßmarkt. From 10am - 8pm. Lots for the family to enjoy, and of course some food and drink!
Festivals in October
3 Oct - Schlemmerwanderung, Oppenheim A little further out than some other festivals, but still accessible by train.
11 - 14 Oct - Autumn Market & Fest (Herbstfest), Idstein Starting on the Friday through to Monday, hosted on Schlossplatz in the heart of this pretty old town. A family occasion plus musical entertainment. (The RB22 runs hourly from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof to Idstein, every 2 hours on Sunday)
12 - 13 Oct - Elisabethmarkt & Fest, Marburg. A pretty university town about 80km north of Frankfurt. Not only the market, but also Sunday opening for stores in the centre too. (Regional RB and IC trains run half hourly from Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof to Marburg throughout the weekend. Buy a Hessen card, 35€, and up to five people can travel together)
13 Oct - Harvest Festival, Bad Homburg. The Harvest festival is hosted along Louisastraße and stores will be open from 1pm until 6pm (S5 departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every 15 min on weekdays, every 30 mins at the weekend)
18 - 20 Oct - Federweisser Days, Rüdesheim An opportunity to try the fresh new wine up from the local vintners. They'll be onion cake on sale too, to compliment the wine. Hosted over two weekends! (RB10 regional train departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every hour)
25 - 27 Oct - Federweisser Days, Rüdesheim. The second weekend of the Federweisser Days. (RB10 regional train departs Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every hour)
A tour of Frankfurt with Walk Frankfurt
A description of the typical sights that Frankfurt has to offer on Walk-Frankfurt walking tour.
There are lots of great things to do and see in Frankfurt. History lovers will enjoy the old town with stories dating back to Roman times, through the middle ages and into the 1800’s. The modern shopping heart of Frankfurt offers a wide variety of shops, quickly accessible by foot, and foodies will love the daily indoor grocery market and the farmers markets hosted at the end of the week.
To answer the frequently asked question, “what will I get to see on a tour?”, I’ve listed the sights below, and most popular tour duration’s, to help you decide what you would like to see on your tour.
A 90 minute tour
This tour focuses on the old town, but also brings you to the Zeil, the modern shopping heart of Frankfurt. The sights are:
Römerberg - the main square with the beautiful town hall. This is the heart of the old town.
River Main and Eisenersteg - views up and down the river including views of the European Central Bank (ECB) and other skyscrapers.
Haus Wirtheim - the only remaining, in tact, 17th century house on the Römerberg.
Alte Nikolai church - a small church with foundations from the 12th century and 20th century stained glass windows by Lina von Schauroth.
New old town - 35 newly developed buildings bring back to life a part of the old town destroyed in World War II.
Roman remains and the Holy Roman Emperors Kaiserpfalz - historic remains, highlighting the importance of Frankfurt throughout the centuries.
Kaiserdom - the Emperor’s cathedral. The place of the Holy Roman Empire elections and coronations.
Paulskirche - the starting point of German democracy. Open to the public from 10am - 5pm.
Kleinmarkthalle - the indoor market. The place to sample traditional Frankfurt boiled sausage and local wine too!
Hauptwache - the former 18th century police station and heart of Frankfurt’s modern shopping centre.
Deutsche Börse - the old stock exchange and formerly the heart of the banking quarter.
A 2 hour tour
A two hour tour includes the sights listed for the 90 minute tour and extends to include some of the options below. Unfortunately you won’t have time to visit all the options below, so it depends on what you would like to see:
Goethe’s house - literature fans will appreciate the chance to visit Goethe’s place of birth (although there is an entrance fee to visit inside.
Goetheplatz - a statue dedicated to the author and an area of “high-end” shopping.
Fressgass’ - a street of eateries and, in the summer, some great festivals.
Alte Oper - the old opera house. Beautiful renaissance architecture at the western end of the city centre.
Carmelite cloister - open to the public and displaying the 16th century fresco by Jörg Ratgeb.
*Outdoor markets - Konstablerwache and Schillerstrasse
*Farmer’s market are hosted from Thursday to Saturday. They offer a unique piece of Frankfurt life where you join the locals in a glass of apple wine and a bratwurst.
A 3 hour tour
A 3 hour tour will suit you if you want to take a more leisurely pace through the sights of Frankfurt, perhaps stopping for a coffee or even a glass of wine at the indoor market. If you are energetic, and want to achieve your 10,000 steps a day, in 3 hours you can cover all the sights above and also include:
Eschenheimer Tor - a remnant of the original medieval wall and a classic piece of 14th & 15th century architecture (the tower being attributed to Madern Gerthener)
Bockenheimer Anlage - a beautiful park, leading to the old opera house, following a path that used to be the 14th century city battlements.
Memorial to the Jewish victims of the holocaust - to the east of the city is the old Jewish cemetery and memorial.
Frankfurt New Altstadt
In September 2018 Frankfurt celebrated the official opening of the "new" Altstadt. This incredible development reflects architectural styles spanning six centuries. Of the 35 buildings which make up this new quarter, 15 of the houses have been authentically recreated whilst the other 20 properties have a modern contemporary style. The whole project was funded by the city costing 200 million euros and was over 12 years in the making.
Pre-war the old town was an area of 28,000m² and was the most expansive medieval old town in Germany. However, on March 22nd 1944, the bombs rained down. The timber-framed, medieval houses, were not able to withstand the fires, resulting in 80% of the old town being destroyed.
Frankfurt wanted to rebuild itself as a modern city and by 1974 the Technische Rathhaus (technical town hall) took pride of place between the cathedral and the Römerberg. However, there was little love for the building’s brutalist architecture so when it was voiced that the building was to be demolished, the locals wasted no time in petitioning for a sympathetic redevelopment of the old town to represent what stood here before the war.
Today the old town is 7,000m² and is only a quarter of it's previous size. The new development brings back to life former times from the Romans, to the Kaiserpfalz of the earliest Holy Roman Emperors, and the centuries of architecture that followed.
Underneath the Stadthaus, and open for the public to view, lay the old Roman ruins, walls of the former Kaiserpfalz and some of the earliest medieval cellars.
Two of the old trading yards, Hinter dem Lämmchen and Hof zum Rebstock have been beautifully re-crafted, and after 70 years of being blocked, the Coronation Way, Krönungs Weg, is once again a thoroughfare for the public to retrace the steps of the newly crowned Holy Roman Emperors from the cathedral to the Römerberg.
The Hühnermarkt is the hub of the quarter, with the gothic Neue Rotes Haus ready to house "schirns" of yester-year and the Esslinger Haus, with it's reference to Tante Melber, an aunt of Germany's most famous author Johann Wolfgang Goethe. The baroque Grüne Linden, on the south side of the market place, houses the Balthasar Wein Bar offering quality German wines to thirsty passers-by. Meanwhile, on the east side, a row of classicist housing has been recreated. In the centre of the Hühnermarkt stands the fountain dedicated to Friedrich Stoltze, a local satirist and activist of the 1848 democratic movement.
The most outstanding house, the Goldene Waage (the Golden Scales) stands opposite the cathedral. It cost €8 million to authentically recreate both inside and out. This replica 17th century renaissance house is to be managed by the Historical Museum and is open to the public as a cafe and it also has internal access to the Stoltze Museum next door, in house Weisser Bock..
Take some time to explore the new town. Better still, come on a Walk-Frankfurt tour and get the full details and stories of what life was really like here throughout the centuries.
Enjoying German wines at the Rheingau Wine Festival
The Rheingau Weinfest, hosted on the Freßgass' in Frankfurt, is a great opportunity to familiarise yourself with classic German wines. Put any preconception of sweet wine out of your mind. Good German wine is a whole new World waiting to be appreciated, however the German wine classification can feel complicated to novices so, to get the most out of the wine festival, below are some hints and tips to launch you into your voyage of wine discovery.
Dry or Sweet
Trocken is the word to look for if you want a dry, crisp wine. If you find the wine too crisp and minerally you might want to try a halbtrocken or feinherb wine which contains a small amount of residual sweetness, but are not sweet wines! Lusciously sweet wines, the ones you associated with dessert wines, carry the labels Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein or Trockenbeerenauslese.
Trocken and feinherb labels. Photograph © Anne Noble
Grape Varieties
The Rheingau is renown for it's riesling, the king of grape varieties. Many people underestimate riesling however Masters of Wine highly rate it for it's complexity and amazing ageing qualities. Gently sniff the bouquet of your riesling and you'll be amazed at the variety of scents ranging from floral, fruit, honey, herbs and the very distinct 'petrol' nose of an aged riesling. The Rheingau offers some other grape varieties which might be more familiar once you recognise their English names: Grauburgunder = Pinot Gris and Weissburgunder = Pinot Blanc. If you have the chance also try a Scheurebe a truely unique German grape created in 1916 by Dr. Scheu. He combined two grape varieties, riesling and bukettraube (of silvaner heritage) resulting in a wine which is dry with gentle fruit overtones.
Spätburgunder, aka Pinot Noir, dominates red wine production in the Rheingau. The style produced varies from a light finesse, which reflects the cool climes of the Rheingau area, to a richer, darker wine from grapes nurtured in the vineyards using select harvests. The difference is easy to spot in the glass, a light transparent red wine of the old style and a rich deep red of the new style.
VDP
Some producers belong to the elite VDP association. VDP (Verband deutscher Prädikatsweingüter) started in 1910 and serves to promote quality viticulture focussed on regional grape designation, quality production and vineyard management working in harmony with nature. Wine producers have to meet with strict requirements before they can carry the VDP eagle on their bottles. There are a few VDP producers at the Rheingau Weinfest. One repeat visitor is F. B Schönleber and Weingut Hamm is another renown producer which has also achieved the organic certification.
VDP Eagle. Photograph © Anne Noble
Wine Stands
This is a list of this years participants, and all offer great quality wines. All along the Freßgass will be the wine stands interspersed with food stalls making it a great place to head for an evening out with friends.
A day out at the Frankfurt zoo(s)
Frankfurt has two zoos which are open every day of the year. Even in winter they offer a great day out with plenty of indoor exhibits as well as the outdoor pens where the animals roam.
The City Zoo
Located just 1 km east of the city centre the city zoo has it own U-bahn stop, "Zoo" on the number 6 and 7 lines and tram number 14 also stops right outside.
The zoo houses 450 species of animals and birds, including Kumar and Vanni, the lion and lioness. There's a monkey house, an exotic bird house and even peacocks strut freely around the grounds. A bonus for those with young children is the opportunity to hire a pull-along cart (3€), which is ideal for carrying backpacks and even tired children and there is a special petting area with goats and sheep. The zoo has various pit-stops offering snacks and drinks along the way and an indoor cafe.
The "animal of the month" feature showcases an animal each month and has special events such as supervised feeding times and information sessions by the keeper. Regular daily feeding times for the other animals is detailed on-line, http://www.zoo-frankfurt.de/ihr-zoo-besuch/fuetterungszeiten/
The zoo website offers some basic details in English, such as entrance fees and visiting times. Late night opening until 8pm is available on the last Friday of every month (except December). During the late night opening you can wander round at your leisure or join a tour (in German) which is themed each month. All this with a special 2€ price reduction on the regular entrance fee.
Opel Zoo
Opel Zoo is located in Kronberg, a 15 minute drive outside of Frankfurt. Easily accessed by car, it can also be reached by taking the S4 train from Frankfurt to Kronberg Bahnhof and then either the bus lines 261, X26 and X27 to the bus stop "Opel-Zoo".
The zoo is set out in a large park, which is perfect for a gentle stroll through all the themed areas. A highlight at the Opel Zoo is feeding the animals. The zoo sells small packs of food and actively encourages the feeding of various animals. At the elephant house you might be lucky to see the elephant holding his trunk straight up in the air, as a sign he wants another carrot!
There is a lot to see here, the elephant house, the giraffe house, a petting zoo with sheep, goats, ponies and donkeys, and lots of other species. For young children there is even the opportunity for a pony or camel ride. Throughout the park are kiosks offering refreshment. The Sambesi cafe has great views across the park, or you can even bring your own food and make use of the picnic facilities provided.
International Holocaust Remembrance Day - January 27th
Eleven million victims
"By 1945, Germany had murdered over eleven million people in Europe: political prisoners, Roma, homosexuals, the disabled but in numerical terms, overwhelmingly - around six million - Jews." (MacGregor, 2014, p509)
I hope Neil MacGregor doesn't mind me opening a blog page with a quote from his excellent book, Germany: Memories of a Nation.
During my work as a tour guide the majority of people I meet, from all over the World, earnestly believe that 6 million people where murdered during the holocaust. It shocks them to discover the number was closer to 11 million and that there were other groups who were actively victimised with the ultimate aim of annihilation. Frankfurt commemorates all. Memorials have been erected by the local council, by artists, companies, societies and by families of the victims, which exist around the streets of the city and exhibits are regularly put on public display as timely reminders.
Stolperstein - Stumbling stones
By simply looking down on the ground you will sooner or later stumble upon a stumbling stone. Stumbling stones are an art initiative by Gunter Demnig, "...that commemorates the victims of National Socialism, keeping alive the memory of all Jews, Roma and Sinti, homosexuals, dissidents and Jehovah's Witnesses and victims of euthanasia who were deported and exterminated." The commemorative brass stones are placed in the ground outside the last chosen residence of the victim with the opening words, "Here lived...", followed by a short narrative of the victim's fate. Frankfurt has it's share of the 61,000 stumbling stones which can be found across Germany, Austria, Hungary, the Netherlands, Belgium, the Czech Republic, Norway and Ukraine.
Katharina Schmid's stumbling Stone (Stolperstein) murdered for being a Jehovah's Witness.
Adlerwerke "Katzbach" - the concentration camp in Frankfurt
During World War Two a concentration camp existed the centre of Frankfurt, KZ-Katzbach at the Adlerwerke. Up to 1,600 victims were worked to death and by March 1945, as the defeat of the Nazis became a reality, the workers who had survived the atrocious working conditions were sent on a death march to Buchenwald and thereafter onto Dachau. Amongst them were Polish people arrested after the Warsaw uprising and German objectors to the National Socialist government. On the Adlerwerke building today hangs a memorial plaque to those victims so they are not forgotten. More information about the camp, albeit in German, can be found on the official KZ-Alderwerke website.
Roma memorial
On Braubachstrasse, hanging on the wall by number 20, is a memorial dedicated to the Roma people of Frankfurt who fell victim to the racial policies of the Nazis. It's a simple memorial but, nevertheless, it is there detailing the murder and sterilisation of the Roma. Last summer I also had the privilege to meet a man tending a grave in the Frankfurt cemetery. As I paused to look he called me over and explained the grave, he was so lovingly caring for, was that of his grandmother, a Roma, incarcerated at a concentration camp and who had survived the holocaust.
The Grey Buses
Another poignant memorial is that to the physically and mentally disabled victims of the holocaust. The image of a grey bus symbolises the collection and deportation of disabled people, deemed unworthy by the National Socialists, to one of six killing centres in Germany. One of these killing centres was located 80km north of Frankfurt, in Hadamar. The organised euthanasia program, named Action T4, systematically murdered 70,000 people. However, it is believed institutions practised localised euthanasia and, in total, between 1939 and 1945 approximately 300,000 mentally and physically disabled people were murdered. The Grey Buses exhibitwas temporarily located in Frankfurt on Rathenauplatz/Goetheplatz in 2018.
The Frankfurter Engel
In 1994, the Frankfurter Engel was the first memorial in Germany to commemorate the persecution of homosexuals during the National socialist era. Men were targetted in greater numbers than women. Many were worked to death, others were forcibly experimented upon in order to find a "cure" for their condition. The Frankfurter Engel - the Frankfurter Angel, stands on the corner of Schäfergasse and Alte Gasse.
Jewish memorial at Neue Börneplatz
Since 1996 Neue Börneplatz, Frankfurt has been a dedicated memorial to the Jewish citizens who were murdered during the holocaust. The area was formerly the site of the Jewish market and the Börneplatz synagogue which was razed to the ground during Kristallnacht (11th November 1938). The wall around the old Jewish cemetery, also at this site, displays 11,915 steel plaques which individually name each and every Jewish citizen of Frankfurt who was exterminated.
Further out of the city centre are other Jewish memorials. The most recent is the at the European Central Bank (ECB). Part of the building structure makes use of a former warehouse which used as a collection point from where the local Jewish people were forced to board trains and deported to their deaths. The signal box and railway lines outside the building, on public land, have been left as a reminder of the deportations. Within the ECB building a stark concrete ramp leads to the basement of the building, the former the collection point, with inscriptions from the victims and observers.
Details of the other Jewish memorials can be found using this link to Jewish Sites in Frankfurt.
Museumsuferfest August 25th 2017
The annual Museums Embankment festival is in the heart of Frankfurt and not to be missed. It is the largest outdoor festival in the region with stalls and booths on both sides of the River Main offering a huge variety of gastronomic delights plus beer, wine and bands who play into the early hours, and its free! This year the festival runs from Friday 25th August through to Sunday 27th. The festival is in walking distance from most hotels in the city centre, if you're staying/living further out, this link offers a map of tram, bus and U-bahn stops nearby.
For a printer friendly (less images) version of this post -> Frankfurt-Museums-Fest
Along the river bank by the städel at the Museumsfest, in Frankfurt.
The Museumsuferfest Button
A major highlight of the festival is the 7€ badge - this gives you free access to 23 museums in Frankfurt the whole weekend, starting from 3pm on Friday 25th until closing time on Sunday 27th. You can buy the badge, or 'button' as the locals call it, from any participating museum or from the Tourist Information Office. This link lists all the museums taking part and also has the extended opening times during the festival weekend.
the Museumsuferfest 'button' For free Museum Entry
What to do and see at Museumsuferfest Events and Stalls
During the day, visit the many stalls along the south side of the river bank. Up at street level, starting from the Friedensbrücke, walk through the many stalls selling second hand books, vintage vinyl and local art and crafts. Down at the waters edge, close to the Holbeinsteg, local artists also display art and sculptures.
As you progress eastwards, at the street level, the stalls change to booths offering food and drink. Down on the riverbank itself, there is more food and drink and live music too.
By the evening the festival turns into a party atmosphere. Live bands, and DJ's playing sets from techno to rock, there is something to suit everyone's musical taste. All events are listed in this link, select the date or the type of event you are interested in.
Along the northern bank of the River Main are more stalls offering food and drink and live bands. This side can sometimes be less busy than the southern side of the river, but it still gets busy!
Museum Gardens
Many of the museums, Städel, Liebieghaus, the Museum of Applied Arts (Museum Angewandte Kunst) open up their gardens offering more chances to eat and drink and listen to live music. It's an opportunity to escape the hectic pace of the festival and the crowds on the river bank itself.
Another major highlight is the fireworks display which rounds off the celebrations at 10:30pm on Sunday night. A handy hint for novices - if you want to be on the riverside for the display, then head down to the bank about an hour before the fireworks start, grab some food and drink and find a good viewing spot. As 10:30pm approaches the police sometimes stop people descending onto the river bank to prevent overcrowding.
The weather is forecast to be warm and pleasant for the whole weekend - so come along to the festival and enjoy having a party with the locals.
